Be a Better Traveler In Jordan
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Hello!
Some new people here, AND this is the first paid issue of Be a Better Traveler, so I thought it would be a good time to go over what this newsletter actually is and who I am.
I’m a journalist currently based in Chicago, but often elsewhere. You can learn more about me here and read some of my published work here. Want to help with something I’m working on now? If you live in Chicago, please fill out this CTA survey I’m working on with WBEZ.
This biweekly newsletter is a place for me to share stories that don’t make it into publications, as well as my thoughts on how to be a better traveler.
What does that mean? It means learning about the place you’re visiting aside from what to see/do/eat (though of course there’s plenty of that here, too). It means at least a basic understanding of politics, history, social issues, and how that place interacts with wherever you’re coming from. Can you imagine someone visiting the U.S. and not knowing who the president is? Yet Americans visit countries without knowing that or other basic facts all the time. It means acknowledging that travel is a privilege, and while it can and often should be an escape, it can also negatively impact destinations and communities. Do your part to be a better traveler wherever you go.
We’ll cover big travel issues like sustainable travel and overtourism and whether to visit countries with terrible human rights records, as well as more practical tips like why touristy things are actually worth doing, how to walk through Provence in 10 days, whether the Maldives are worth it, how to be a better traveler in Mexico City, why you shouldn’t trust TripAdvisor, and the truth about female solo travel.
I mostly travel for the food, as you’ll learn, and the food section of this newsletter features dishes, restaurants, fun facts, and ingredient spotlights. We also learn about a new wine each issue. To be honest…half the time this is more of a food newsletter than a travel newsletter, but food is such an important part of travel and even at home it’s a great way to learn about the world.
Each newsletter includes lots of links to my favorite articles, books, podcasts, YouTube videos, Instagram accounts, and more covering these food and travel topics. There are also interviews with chefs, journalists, tour guides and other travel and food experts. Also, it’s (hopefully) fun!
So let’s get to this week’s destination!
Be a Better Traveler In Jordan
Jordan is one of my favorite places in the world and was the first place I ever traveled outside of the U.S. I studied abroad in Irbid, and it ignited my love for travel and the Middle East. I’ve been lucky to spend many, many months back in Jordan in the years since.
Sure, it is perhaps best known for the archaeological site Petra and its role in Indiana Jones, but there’s much more to discover in Jordan, which is also one of the most stable countries in the Middle East and one of the most tourist-friendly.
Geography
Sitting on the east bank of the Jordan River, Jordan is right in the heart of the Levant region, bordered by Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, Palestine, Israel, the Dead Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba, which separates it from Egypt. Amman is the capital and largest city.
One thing that’s great about Jordan is that it’s not very big. You can drive around and see a lot in one trip, and that includes varying geography. You have the Dead Sea, sandstone cliffs in Petra, miles and miles of desert and sand dunes in Wadi Rum, the Red Sea in the Gulf of Aqaba, canyons and wadis, mountains in the north…it’s a lot.
Climate
Summers are long, hot and dry in Jordan (typically in the 80s and 90s), and winters are cold. Not as cold as the Midwest, but you are in a desert and it gets chillier than you might expect – in the low 30s at night. Spring and fall are the best times to visit. That said, because it’s dry the heat doesn’t feel oppressive (at least to me) and it’s nowhere near as hot as Iraq, the UAE or other places nearby. So if you think you can deal with hot weather, visit in the summer when flights are cheaper.
Though a relatively wealthy country in the Middle East, Jordan is one of the poorest countries in the world in terms of water resources. Jordan, Israel, and Syria share the Jordan and Yarmouk Rivers, and Jordan has historically been short-shrifted in comparison to those two countries. Jordan pulls much of its water from aquifers, which are shrinking rapidly due to climate change, but it doesn’t have the oil and gas deposits other Middle Eastern countries have to fund desalinating seawater.
History
Jordan has a very long history. It’s been inhabited since the Paleolithic period, and has served as a trade hub for virtually every major empire, including the Assyrians, Babylonians, Nabataeans, Persians, Romans, Byzantine Empire, Rashidun, Umayyad and Abbasid caliphates, and the Ottoman Empire. The Nabateans carved Petra, their capital city and the main reason most people visit Jordan, and Alexander the Great founded cities like Gerasa in the north.
After the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans during World War I, Jordan became a British protectorate until achieving independence in 1946. In 1994, Jordan became the second Arab state (after Egypt) to sign a peace treaty with Israel, following numerous conflicts including the Arab-Israeli War and Six-Day War. This is a very abbreviated history and I recommend doing some additional reading before visiting.
Today, Jordan is considered one of the most stable countries in the region, and one of the most tourist-friendly. Aside from Petra, visitors come in droves to float in the Dead Sea, snorkel in Aqaba, see the spot where Moses supposedly saw the Promised Land before death (Mount Nebo), take in Roman ruins in Amman and Jerash, and hike the Jordan Trail and Wadi Mujib.
Government
Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, like the United Kingdom and Spain, but the king has broader powers than in those countries. The parliament’s lower house is elected, but has little power, and the judicial system is not independent.
King Abdullah II has been in power since 1999 and is fairly popular abroad, if not necessarily domestically. People will tell you they love the king. It’s hard to know what’s true and hard to measure popularity in the country due to laws against dissent. There was grumbling when the Pandora Papers revealed Abdullah’s hidden property empire, and in April 2021 when he ordered the house arrest of his half-brother and other members of the royal family for allegedly plotting a coup.
Queen Rania is perhaps more popular, or at least more famous worldwide. She’s known for her beauty, her advocacy work, and has worked with Michelle Obama and other leaders on education campaigns. She and King Abdullah met at a dinner party while Rania was working for Apple in Amman.
The United States is Jordan’s single largest provider of bilateral assistance, providing more than $1.65 billion in 2021, according to the U.S. State Department. The United States has also provided nearly $1.7 billion in humanitarian assistance to support Syrian refugees in Jordan. The U.S. assists the Jordanian military, including training, helping with border security, and providing materiel.
Social Issues
Jordan scores 33 out of 100 on Freedom House’s “Freedom In the World” index, which earns it a “not free” rating. Jordanian law criminalizes speech deemed critical of the king, foreign countries, government officials and institutions, Islam and Christianity, and defamatory speech. A September, 2022 Human Rights Watch report found that “civic space in Jordan has shrunk over the past four years as authorities persecute and harass citizens organizing peacefully and engaging in political dissent.”
Earlier this year, Jordan amended its constitution to give women equal rights, but activists are pushing for more reforms.
Jordan decriminalized homosexuality in 1951 and Jordan is safe for LGBTQIA+ travelers. However, same-sex marriage is not recognized and there is no protection against discrimination in the workplace.
There are more than 760,000 refugees in Jordan, the vast majority from Syria. This year, Jordan issued a record number of work permits to refugees, a step UNHCR cheered. Still, issues persist with inequality and integrating refugees into the Jordanian economy and providing access to education. There are about 70,000 migrant workers in Jordan, and often they suffer abuse, non-payment, and unsafe work conditions.
In addition, there are millions of stateless Palestinians living in the country. More than half of Jordan’s 6.3 million population is of Palestinian-origin, including Queen Rania. Yet, many of them have been denied nationality or had their nationality withdrawn since 1988, according to Human Rights Watch.
Palestinians in Jordan have little access to government positions, and therefore power. It’s a complicated situation, with some lauding Jordan for taking in millions of Palestinian refugees since 1947, and others demanding more fair treatment for what is the majority of the population. Needless to say, Palestinian culture and Jordanian culture are deeply intertwined, from recipes to textiles to an insistence on hospitality.
Media
“Jordan is known for its political stability, which distinguishes it from its neighboring countries. But media professionals censor themselves and respect the implicit red lines around certain subjects,” reads a report from Reporters Without Borders. Much of the in-country media is government controlled, either through ownership, intimidation or fines. A 2021 media law blocked hundreds of websites. That said, there are currently zero journalists in prison in Jordan, unlike every other country in the Middle East. Jordan ranks 120 out of 180 on the Reporters Without Borders index, with a score of 48.66.
Safety
Jordan is safe for tourists. Violent crime against tourists is virtually non-existent. Like anywhere, keep an eye on your wallet in crowded areas and beware of scams (like someone offering you a gift then asking for money, particularly in Petra). It is also more progressive than some neighboring countries (hijabs and other coverings are not required, drinking alcohol is accepted, etc.)
Jordan has a reputation for being one of the friendliest countries in the Middle East, and hey, some stereotypes are true. The phrase “welcome to Jordan '' is so common it’s become a joke among tourists who visit often, or expats who continue to hear the refrain though they’ve lived there for years. You think I’m kidding but please count how many times you hear it if you visit.
Don’t be afraid to ask for directions or other advice, or to accept a dinner invite or other acts of kindness from Jordanians.
Tourism
More than 5 million tourists visited Jordan in 2019, pre-pandemic. Those are mostly Arab tourists, though in the past decade tourism from the U.S. and Europe has steadily increased. Tourism is responsible for about 20% of the country’s GDP.
How to Be a Better Traveler
Be respectful. Jordan is about 95% Muslim and visitors should comply with local custom such as dressing modestly. Alcohol is served in hotels and other designated bars, for example, but being intoxicated in public is illegal. Understand that some things are going to be different than what you’re used to, and unless you’re living there it’s not your place to fight back. Pack the right clothes (more on that below), don’t be drunk in public, don’t engage in PDA, and in general be courteous and if someone tells you something isn’t allowed, stop doing it (this is also for your safety). For example, on my first trip to Jordan I took photos of the police, which is fine in the U.S. but not fine there and I didn’t know until they told me.
If you’re eating a shared dish, like mansaf (below), etiquette is important. Eat with your right hand, and keep your left hand behind your back. Eating rice with your hands can sound tricky, but it’s actually pretty easy, especially because the yogurt makes the rice sticky. Grab a small handful, squeeze, then gently roll it around in your hand to shape it. Because you’ll be dipping your fingers into the tray again, be careful not to let them touch your mouth.
Remember what I said about scarcity of water before? In the desert, water is scarce, and in the cities it’s sometimes rationed. Tourists won’t run into issues at most hotels, but it’s a good idea to be conscious of your water use while in the country. The water is also not safe to drink, so bring a sterilizing water bottle or tablets, or drink bottled water.
Accept that things might move a little more slowly than they do in the U.S. Buses might not depart on time. You might have to ask for the check at a restaurant. Things move a little more slowly sometimes, which can be nice. If someone offers you tea, accept it, even if you’re in a hurry. It’s rude not to and also delicious. Drinking tea in random scenarios is something I miss a lot and wish we incorporated more into American culture!
How to Spend 5 Days In Jordan
I think 10 days is actually ideal in Jordan, but realize that vacation days are limited and that if you’re taking a week off and including travel time, you probably have five solid days in-country. If you have more time, spend another day in Amman, head north to Jerash and Umm Qais for a day or two, and do some adventuring in Wadi Mujib. If you love snorkeling, scrap Jerash and Umm Qais for Aqaba. Aqaba is fun because if you take a boat tour you can see Jordan, Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia all at once. Love hiking? Spend a day or two on the Jordan trail.
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Do you want to go on a five day trip to Jordan with me?? I’m considering hosting a small group tour sometime in the next 18 months. More details to come, but if this is something you would be at all interested in, please reply to this email and let me know so I can gauge interest! I’ve brought friends to Jordan in the past and showing them one of my favorite places is always so much fun!
Before we move on, here are some other things I’ve written about Jordan:
Jordanian hospitality and learning to love Nescafe–Roads & Kingdoms (this is kind of a sappy study abroad piece)
The Middle East’s Best Olive Oil–The National (you can visit them if you come on the tour!)
A history of mansaf, Jordan’s national dish–USA Today
Hiking the Jordan Trail–The Independent
Yemeni Breakfast for Dinner In Jordan–Curiosity Magazine (You should seek out Yemeni breakfast wherever you are. I haven’t found a great spot in Chicago, but think there are a few good ones in New York.)
Jordanian designer Nafsika Skourti on the shifting styles of Arab women–The National
Farm to Fork: How a new project will help tourists eat their way around Jordan–The National (we can also do some of this if we take a trip!)
OK. Now…How to Spend 5 Days in Jordan
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