Be a Better Traveler In Mexico City
The touristy thing I always do, plus what Americans get wrong about mezcal
Reminder that there’s one more free newsletter after this one. Then, city guides like the Mexico City guide below will be for paid subscribers, along with other benefits.
Hello! It’s peak fall here in the Midwest, and while 70-degree days in late October are odd and maybe worrying, I’m not going to complain. I spent last week on the East Coast, first visiting New Haven, where I had never been and where the gorgeous Yale campus made me want to go back to school or find a way to read in the libraries for days, then on to Cape Cod and the Catskills. I don’t think I’ve given New York enough credit for what a beautiful state it is outside of New York City. 😍
Be a Better Traveler - Take Food Tours!
This week’s newsletter is a long one, so I’m going to make the Be a Better Traveler portion short. Basically: take food tours!
I’ve talked before about how touristy things are often worth doing, and how I don’t like the ‘be a traveler, not a tourist’ mindset. Food tours are one of those touristy things that are definitely worth doing. You’re never going to be an expert on everywhere and every type of food, and even if you do tons of food research before a trip, like I do, it’s still nice to have someone do some of the legwork for you. Food tours are a good way to get an overview of the must-eats in a place while taking a tour of the city. You can make your own food tour, but I think it’s better to go with an expert who can tell you about what you’re eating, add context, answer your questions, or translate your questions to the chef/food stall owner/barista/etc.
Schedule a tour for the first full day of your trip and make notes of places you want to return to later for a full meal. Ask your guide where they like to eat and drink, which can inform the rest of your trip. (Wrote about this for the NYT a few years ago.)
Last December, I visited Mexico City for the first time and took the ‘Mexico Street Food Essentials’ tour with Club Tengo Hambre. The 3.5 hour walking tour takes you around the city, stopping at taco stands, a churrería, a market and more. I learned a ton, ate things I would not have thought to order, and got recommendations for the rest of the trip from Natalia de la Rosa, our guide for the day. She was nice enough to answer your questions, too.
Reader Q&A with Natalia de la Rosa
Natalia de la Rosa is a Mexican food and travel writer, mezcal collector, and culinary guide based in Mexico City.
[Starting in November, Q&As will be for paid subscribers.]
When is the best time to visit Mexico City?
A really good time to visit is during the Day of the Dead. It’s a holiday all across Mexico, and across Mexico City different activities and restaurants and the city feels very lively and beautiful, and the decor is cool and colorful. The city has marigolds everywhere and it’s just a fun time to be here.
The beginning of March is also really nice because it’s not super hot yet and the Jacaranda trees are in bloom. Literally the entire city is purple, and they only blossom for a month.
That said, Mexico City has pretty temperate weather, so anytime is great to visit.
I’m debating between staying in Roma Norte or Polanco – which would you pick?
I think between Roma and Polanco, Roma has more of a vibe. There’s more cool, local stuff. A lot of people that stay in Polanco might stay in big, nice hotels, and I think Polanco has more of a high end vibe, but if you just want to walk around a neighborhood, stumble into a coffee shop, a cool restaurant….Roma is the better option.
What are some things you think people typically miss out on when they visit Mexico City?
People make reservations and plans, of course. But for me, one of the cool things about Mexico City is walking around, sitting in the park, having a cup of coffee and enjoying the vibe of a neighborhood without necessarily going somewhere. Maybe people miss out exploring neighborhoods in the south. Coyoacán is in the south, for example. Or visiting around the national university, which has a cool campus that is very pretty, and pretty walkable, plus there are some cool art museums around there. Mexicans like to people watch. Just sitting in a park, giving the city that time just to walk around without plans to do anything. A lot of people miss that easy going vibe when they visit.
How much time should I spend in Mexico City?
Coming in on Wednesday or Tuesday and leaving on Monday is a good amount of time. Make sure you have a weekend in Mexico City, because during the weekday now the city is fully on the traffic and rush of the city. Mexico City does have a particular vibe on Saturday and Sunday. It gets quieter, people walk more and are out with their family and stuff. Stay from Thursday to Monday at least. On weekends, it’s barbacoa day and you should definitely try barbacoa. You can find it in a lot of different stands, but a really good place in Roma Norte is El Hidalguense.
How can people ‘Be a Better Traveler’ in Mexico City?
Mexico City has changed in the last five to eight years, maybe more. Since the pandemic, people are getting mixed feelings about it [tourism/remote workers], because of gentrification and the increasing high cost of living in specific neighborhoods like Roma and Condesssa. We’re receiving remote workers from all over, and going through mixed feelings because it pushes tourism and the economy, but drives locals away from neighborhoods. I think it's definitely changing. My recommendations for travelers would be to know that locals are more outspoken now about calling out people that are coming with an entitled attitude. So I would say, at least just learn basic phrases such as ‘hello,’ ‘thank you,’ and don’t expect everybody to speak English.
I also think because travelers tend to stay in this pocket of neighborhoods like Roma, Condesa, Polanco, and Downtown, they get an impression that the lifestyle they see is the same throughout the city. But there are certain neighborhoods that are very underserved, very working class. Acknowledge those different contrasts in the city. Not everything is Roma or Condesa. Make a point to explore other areas that are kind of close to those neighborhoods, and that area is equally cool, but feel more local for sure.
What should I know about safety?
Mexico City is a huge city, and for that reason it’s advisable to take the same precautions you would do in Chicago, NY, LA… you know, just as a regular traveler in a big city. A big misconception is that there’s a lot of violence, and violence is a thing that people see or hear about Mexico…But you don’t see it that much in Mexico City. Maybe other towns and other states but not Mexico City. For that matter, I think cities in the US experience more violence than Mexico City does.
Ok, the most-asked question - where should I eat? What are your absolute favorite spots?
For sure one of my favorite restaurants is Maximo Bistro. That’s a really good meal you’re going to have in town. Also Cardenal––breakfast or lunch with really good service. If you’re staying during the weekend you have to try barbacoa.
Go to Baltra Bar in Condesa. It's a tiny bar that feels cozy and not super douchey.
Make sure to explore the street food and the taco culture. Here it’s very prevalent. People should try esquites––it’s just like a cup of corn kernels with mayonnaise and cheese and lime and salsa. Not a lot of people get to try them because they are mostly sold in little stands on corners.
Also, restaurants here are really good at communicating schedule changes through social media. So check through social media if you’re wondering if somewhere is open.
[See below for a list of everything I ate in Mexico City, much of it recommended by Natalia.]
What is something I should do that’s not food-related?
Lucha Libre is fun. They have shows, Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Tuesday is lucha libre day. It’s definitely something fun you should do.
La Ciudadela is a great market with pottery, linens, and cute handbags. And In Juarez and Roma Norte there are lots of little boutiques with slow fashion and cool textile projects.
What do you love about living in Mexico City?
I was born and raised here. I think for me, one of the things I love about Mexico City is that even though it’s a city of 20+ million, it feels like there’s a sense of identity and community within Mexico City. Mexico City people are very resilient. We get excited about things, and people respond to just going out. If there’s a free event, people will be there. Two weeks ago there was a free concert downtown and literally 100,00 people went. Fostering this sense of community is kind of cool. Mexicans show up to do random stuff. Earlier this year there was the biggest boxing class in the world downtown. Thousands showed up to take a boxing class downtown for free. That sense of community is really great.
Book a food tour with Natalia or someone else at Club Tengo Hambre! It was a highlight of my trip.
Travel for the Food - Some favorite things I Ate in Mexico City
Coffee and pastries at Panaderia Rosetta in Roma Norte
Coyoacan Market - You’re going to want to spend a few hours walking around and grazing here.
Tacos El Huequito - tacos al pastor
Churrería el Moro - would fly back just for these.
Contramar - get the fish two ways and the tuna tostadas. Very packed and hard to get reservations if you don’t plan ahead. We did not have a reservation put our name in and the wait wasn’t too bad.
Cicatriz - good for wine and a light bite.
Pasillo de Humo - for Oaxacan food. Don’t miss the mezcal cart!
El Cardenal - the best breakfast! Fuel up before visiting the art museum nearby. Again, you’ll have to put your name in and wait, but it went quickly.
Drink
Buy mezcal at Mis Mezcales in Roma Norte. From Natalia: “They have really cool brands with really good social and environmental programs.”
Xaman Bar and Baltra Bar for cocktails. Stopped in lots of random, small places for beers and I don’t know the names! Cantina Tio Pepe for history and fun.
Other Mexico City Must-Dos
La Ciudadela - Handicraft market near a nice park.
Palacio de Bellas Artes - Smaller than it looks from the outside, so don’t worry about not having enough time for it. Loved the murals.
Walk, walk, walk. Mexico City has beautiful architecture and lots of green space. You’ll miss some of the most charming spots if you don’t wander around.
Parroquia San Juan Bautista - Cathedral with a small foundation and lots of cute shops and restaurants around the square.
Bosque de Chapultepec - Walk through this park on your way to or from the Anthropology Museum. It’s a big museum so plan to spend a few hours and maybe take a break. Well worth your time to walk through Mexico’s history from the Maya civilization to present.
Wine of the Week
This week it’s actually Mezcal. Back to Natalia:
Let’s talk about mezcal. What do tourists get wrong about it?
Well first of all, mezcal is a distillation that belongs to a specific community. And it’s very traditional, low batch produced. Of course, a lot of mezcal reaching the U.S. right now is super commercial and blended. It’s diluted to bring the alcohol percentage down. One of the things for a regular consumer who is first trying mezcal to do is to find producers who are promoting fairly and respecting the community. One project that is very interesting and is called Neta Mezcal. It’s available in some stores in the U.S. It’s a really cool project and they focus on Oaxaca. If you want to get to know mezcal in Oaxaca it’s a really good brand with a really good social support project.
There are many varieties of mezcal that haven’t reached the states. Visitors should be open to trying and respecting other flavors that are not necessarily smoky.
My partner and I are mezcal collectors. We have a private collection room for mezcal, and we welcome whoever wants to come and we share the collection with them. We don’t want it to be like, ‘oh mezcal tasting,’ and very academic. We just like to greet you, tell you a little about what you’re trying. Basically we want people to have access to the collection we have, because we’ve been collecting for many years now. Book a visit here.
Travel at Home
Whenever I tell people from outside the Midwest that Chicago has great Mexican food, they’re skeptical. But it really does! Chicago has the second largest Mexican population in the US (after LA), according to the Migration Policy Institute. In the early 20th century, immigrants entered the U.S. and were connected to Chicago by rail, so while Chicago is far from the border, it was actually easy to reach. This Bloomberg piece has more on the history. And this Eater list tells you where to find Mexican food in the city. In Pilsen, check out the massive murals along 16th Street and visit the National Museum of Mexican Art before stopping at Don Pedro for my favorite carnitas. Learn about and drink mezcal at Encanto. Not in Chicago? This Bon Appetit article shares recipes from some of Chicago’s Mexican chefs.
Weekend Reading (It’s a lot, but all too good not to share. I’m sorry.)
Why so many people still don’t understand anti-Semitism - in light of Kanye
It’s political ad season. This guide from the Political Advertising Literacy Research Group helps you figure out what’s true and what’s misleading. Related: Media literacy is now required in Illinois schools.
Virtually all children on Earth will face more frequent heatwaves by 2050
Taylor Swift is the greatest self-portraitist of our lifetime
Did you know Burkina Faso has had two coups this year?
The evolution of the Diwali sweet - hope everyone who celebrates had a happy Diwali this year!
Forced birth is torture: an American traumedy (Subscribe to her newsletter if you enjoy dark humor about current events.)
How did healing ourselves get so exhausting? (!!!)
Gen Z Iranian women hold the future
How I travel as a fat queer Black woman
Who does pasta belong to? This made me want to visit Argentina immediately. Related: For Black cooks, spaghetti represents connection and ingenuity.
The man who explains Italy - in light of elections
How to help migrants coming to Chicago
Coffee vs. Tea smackdown (team coffee forever)
‘Every day is worse than the one before’: a Palestinian community fights for survival
Tour Amazon’s dream home, where every appliance is a spy. When I was a teenager, after the Patriot Act was signed, my dad would answer the phone, “they’re listening, but speak if you wish.” Obviously, this was incredibly embarrassing, especially because this was pre-cell phones so friends had to call our landline to reach me. Now, as much as I hate to admit it, I feel like my dad in my refusal to allow any of these Amazon products into my home. 😂
Everyone wants a tip now. Do you have to give them one? This Vox piece dives into tip inflation, particularly on things not tipped for pre-pandemic. A nice companion to my ‘how to tip abroad guide.’
The Instagram capital of the world is a terrible place to be
A little alone time with Carly Rae Jepsen - shoutout to my new sister-in-law (!!) for turning me into a fan
Wine media is broken: a case study
The recipe convention that dooms home cooks
I sold the French Laundry. Then it became the ‘best restaurant in the world’ - I love these NYT op-docs. Related: Is it still worth the splurge?
An interesting thread ⬇️
Are hybrid grapes the future of wine? Quotable – “Wine, when we stop and think about it, is really a luxury, but it’s been such a large part of human life for millennia that it’s inconceivable to think about how we move forward in a grape-free world.”
The humiliating history of the TSA - Read alongside this old but relevant Jeffrey Goldberg piece, ‘The Things He Carried,’ about how “airport security in America is a sham.”
What do we lose when every city has a Carbone? (I think about this all the time, but about Nobu.)
Maybe this is the reason I love frozen pizza. Per usual, Wisconsin does anything with cheese better.
Related ⬇️
Fans are quitting Spotify to save their love of music - ”She looked some more, through playlist after playlist. An uncomfortably familiar loop, it made her realise: she hated how music was being used in her life.”
Loved these excerpts from Alan Rickman’s diaries
Is natural wine losing its cool factor?
[I love candy corn. Read an old defense of it I wrote here.]
The Supreme Court meets Andy Warhol, Prince and a case that could threaten creativity
This whole thread is…just wow. Love the show, do not understand how this episode was made. ⬇️
Other things:
Listen: I’m liking the Tylenol Murders podcast from the Chicago Tribune.
Do: Follow this Twitter list of women journalists on the ground in Iran.
Cook: This apple tart from Jacques Pépin, via David Lebovitz. I made this last week and it was gone in 48-hours. So good (and easy). The crazy thing learned while reading the recipe? Apparently, Jacques Pépin “isn’t well-known in France.” Mind blown.
I’m sorry to everyone that I finally caught up on emails to this week…
If you liked the newsletter today, please pass it to someone you know who’d enjoy it, and tap the heart icon above, which helps me reach more readers.
–Rebecca 💛
P.S.
Wow what a wonderful newsletter and so much to read . Loved the first section on Mexico and the Q&A as well
Wow, there's a lot to digest here! (Sorry, couldn't resist!) Great write up of CDMX, one of my favorite cities...