I visited Tulum in 2014 and this was simply not my experience! I think it was more like Holbox back then....it was quiet, calm, no electricity at night (we stayed at an eco resort) and there was definitely fresh fish. I recall a local on the beach coming up with his spear and his snorkel haul of fresh snapper, (even offering to take us snorkeling on a whim!) and then we ate said snapper, tuna, etc at jungle spots like Casa Banana and Casa Jaguar by candelight! Daytime on the beach you could take your top off, and hardly anyone would see! I even wrote "if you're doing it right, you don't need shoes"
I've heard about Tulum becoming what it is, but more in passing remarks (and thought...wait what?!) so its eye opening to read about it in detail.
I wrote the Rough Guide to the Yucatan from 2003 till 2011 or so, and it's uncanny how your description of Holbox is exactly what people said about Tulum back in the day: for a "different kind of tourist," people are nicer, etc. The problem is that as soon as a place "trends" in any way, real estate developers swoop in. Holbox *might* have some protection because it has limited electricity and an ejido structure, as well as absolutely killer mosquitoes for about four months a year...but actually, Tulum had those limitations too (minus mosquitoes) and they were overcome.
I don't know what the answer is to this terrible cycle, but for me at least, it involved getting out of the guidebook business. I'm queasy when I think about my part in steering people "off the beaten track" to places that are now grossly overbuilt. (At least I tried to show people what was cool about Cancun! I don't think anyone ever took my advice, though.)
I also would say: don't rent a car. Take taxis and servicios (and yes, even the train--it's running to Playa del Carmen at this point). This spreads your money around more directly to locals. What you might lose in time you make up for in interactions with people.
This is such great perspective. And maybe I regret saying anything about Holbox. I hope it is protected in some way, but I'm sure real estate developers will try to take advantage. There are already a few of the same luxury hotel brands as in Tulum. I was thinking the extra steps to reach it might help, but maybe not. Now I want to know what's cool about Cancun!
I wrote this in 2010. Short version is that cancunenses use the hotel zone a lot more than it seems at first, and the "tacky" parts of the city aren't necessarily for tourists. (Not mentioned in this story, but I also dug that there was a little corner of the hotel zone that catered to Japanese tourists--not sure if it's still there.) https://www.perceptivetravel.com/issues/1210/cancun.html
haha i think Tulum even had mosquitos!! well not on the beach, but there was this one jungle side sunset on the third floor deck of Maeto's and those things came out like a swarm of killer bees!
Who knew I would ever be rooting for the mosquitos! (I don't mean in a direct fight against *you*, of course, but just as a general overtourism deterrent.)
The classic conundrum -- tourism is good until it isn't. Holbox sounds lovely but would our visiting help drive it toward Tulum? It's the question we ask ourselves wherever we go...
Exactly. It's hard to say. If no one visited, that would be a problem. If everyone visits, also a problem. Hard to know where the line is or what to do. For now I think if you're visiting and being conscious of where you spend your money, you're ok. (ie: don't stay at the chain hotels, etc)
I would say pretty minimal. I have high school level Spanish and can order food, etc., which I feel like is nice to try, but honestly most people we interacted with spoke English.
This was so interesting to read! I first visited Tulum in 2002, and have been wary of returning — interestingly, when I was in the Yucatan in 2012 or so, people already were talking about how overwhelmed Tulum had become, and about Holbox as an alternative destination.
Yeah I feel kind of bad we even went to Tulum! I was curious because I know so many people absolutely love it, but it felt basically built for Instagram and just so different than friends who had gone years ago (like in 2010) had described it. Interesting that even in 2012 people were talking about Holbox as an alternative. It feels very different than Tulum, but I wonder how much it's changed in the past decade.
My husband and I went to Holbox in April 2016 and absolutely loved it. We've talked about going back so many times, and I do think we will at some point, but I have this fear that the magical memories I have of it from 2016 will be erased by a current day trip. Will it feel completely different and packed with tourists, overpriced "fancy" restaurants and luxury hotels? I'm relieved to hear your current description of Holbox...It doesn't sound like it's gone too far in that direction...yet. We loved the no cars, quiet and laid back feel of the island. It's a special place. I hope it stays protected from what has happened to Tulum.
We first visited what was called the Tulum Corridor (now Riviera Maya) in late 80s. Highway 307 was literally 2 lane blacktop, no cars zooming by, barely a car! and chasm gulches on either side so deep they’d eat your car. We’d jump on a local bus heading south from Cancun or Puerto Morelos ( where we eventually ended up building a house and opening a bookstore, Alma Libre Libros) and when we’d see a long sascab lane and turquoise ocean at the end, asked the bus driver to let us off. The beach would always be empty/no one there. We’d swim and sun and walk the kilometer back to the road and hitch a ride. It truly was paradise, and Tulum at the time had no one. Called a backpackers’ paradise. We always instead chose teeny hotels, like $12USD a night. I’m against the train. It has literally ruined some of the underground rivers and cenotes. Check my posts about it’s effects on Mexico Soul: https://mexicosoul.substack.com/p/mexicos-maya-train-makes-debut-on I also wrote a travel memoir: Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. And if you’re nearby stop into the bookstore in Puerto Morelos. We sold store but Caleb and Nicole are carrying on famously!! I write about all things Mexico do check out my stack!! Buen viaje! And yes, Holbox is still like the old Mexico (at least for now).
Thanks for sharing! The bookstore sounds fantastic and I will definitely stop there next time. So interesting to hear from so many people who spent time in Tulum years ago on how it's changed. And agreed--the train sounds horrible. I really hope people read up on it and reconsider before booking a trip.
Do you think Holbox would be a good place now to upgrade one's Spanish? I'm not a beginning learner but would be nice to find someone with teaching experience.
I visited Tulum in 2014 and this was simply not my experience! I think it was more like Holbox back then....it was quiet, calm, no electricity at night (we stayed at an eco resort) and there was definitely fresh fish. I recall a local on the beach coming up with his spear and his snorkel haul of fresh snapper, (even offering to take us snorkeling on a whim!) and then we ate said snapper, tuna, etc at jungle spots like Casa Banana and Casa Jaguar by candelight! Daytime on the beach you could take your top off, and hardly anyone would see! I even wrote "if you're doing it right, you don't need shoes"
I've heard about Tulum becoming what it is, but more in passing remarks (and thought...wait what?!) so its eye opening to read about it in detail.
I blogged a ton about it, if it interest you. (https://indulgeinspireimbibe.blogspot.com/2014/11/tulum-mexico.html) I have others with the restaurants and food, too.
Yeah I think it's changed massively. That all sounds so nice! Looking forward to checking out your posts.
I wrote the Rough Guide to the Yucatan from 2003 till 2011 or so, and it's uncanny how your description of Holbox is exactly what people said about Tulum back in the day: for a "different kind of tourist," people are nicer, etc. The problem is that as soon as a place "trends" in any way, real estate developers swoop in. Holbox *might* have some protection because it has limited electricity and an ejido structure, as well as absolutely killer mosquitoes for about four months a year...but actually, Tulum had those limitations too (minus mosquitoes) and they were overcome.
I don't know what the answer is to this terrible cycle, but for me at least, it involved getting out of the guidebook business. I'm queasy when I think about my part in steering people "off the beaten track" to places that are now grossly overbuilt. (At least I tried to show people what was cool about Cancun! I don't think anyone ever took my advice, though.)
I also would say: don't rent a car. Take taxis and servicios (and yes, even the train--it's running to Playa del Carmen at this point). This spreads your money around more directly to locals. What you might lose in time you make up for in interactions with people.
This is such great perspective. And maybe I regret saying anything about Holbox. I hope it is protected in some way, but I'm sure real estate developers will try to take advantage. There are already a few of the same luxury hotel brands as in Tulum. I was thinking the extra steps to reach it might help, but maybe not. Now I want to know what's cool about Cancun!
I wrote this in 2010. Short version is that cancunenses use the hotel zone a lot more than it seems at first, and the "tacky" parts of the city aren't necessarily for tourists. (Not mentioned in this story, but I also dug that there was a little corner of the hotel zone that catered to Japanese tourists--not sure if it's still there.) https://www.perceptivetravel.com/issues/1210/cancun.html
So interesting!
haha i think Tulum even had mosquitos!! well not on the beach, but there was this one jungle side sunset on the third floor deck of Maeto's and those things came out like a swarm of killer bees!
Who knew I would ever be rooting for the mosquitos! (I don't mean in a direct fight against *you*, of course, but just as a general overtourism deterrent.)
The classic conundrum -- tourism is good until it isn't. Holbox sounds lovely but would our visiting help drive it toward Tulum? It's the question we ask ourselves wherever we go...
Exactly. It's hard to say. If no one visited, that would be a problem. If everyone visits, also a problem. Hard to know where the line is or what to do. For now I think if you're visiting and being conscious of where you spend your money, you're ok. (ie: don't stay at the chain hotels, etc)
this was an excellent read, thank you! what level of Spanish would you say is needed to get around as a tourist in Holbox?
I would say pretty minimal. I have high school level Spanish and can order food, etc., which I feel like is nice to try, but honestly most people we interacted with spoke English.
This was so interesting to read! I first visited Tulum in 2002, and have been wary of returning — interestingly, when I was in the Yucatan in 2012 or so, people already were talking about how overwhelmed Tulum had become, and about Holbox as an alternative destination.
Yeah I feel kind of bad we even went to Tulum! I was curious because I know so many people absolutely love it, but it felt basically built for Instagram and just so different than friends who had gone years ago (like in 2010) had described it. Interesting that even in 2012 people were talking about Holbox as an alternative. It feels very different than Tulum, but I wonder how much it's changed in the past decade.
My husband and I went to Holbox in April 2016 and absolutely loved it. We've talked about going back so many times, and I do think we will at some point, but I have this fear that the magical memories I have of it from 2016 will be erased by a current day trip. Will it feel completely different and packed with tourists, overpriced "fancy" restaurants and luxury hotels? I'm relieved to hear your current description of Holbox...It doesn't sound like it's gone too far in that direction...yet. We loved the no cars, quiet and laid back feel of the island. It's a special place. I hope it stays protected from what has happened to Tulum.
We first visited what was called the Tulum Corridor (now Riviera Maya) in late 80s. Highway 307 was literally 2 lane blacktop, no cars zooming by, barely a car! and chasm gulches on either side so deep they’d eat your car. We’d jump on a local bus heading south from Cancun or Puerto Morelos ( where we eventually ended up building a house and opening a bookstore, Alma Libre Libros) and when we’d see a long sascab lane and turquoise ocean at the end, asked the bus driver to let us off. The beach would always be empty/no one there. We’d swim and sun and walk the kilometer back to the road and hitch a ride. It truly was paradise, and Tulum at the time had no one. Called a backpackers’ paradise. We always instead chose teeny hotels, like $12USD a night. I’m against the train. It has literally ruined some of the underground rivers and cenotes. Check my posts about it’s effects on Mexico Soul: https://mexicosoul.substack.com/p/mexicos-maya-train-makes-debut-on I also wrote a travel memoir: Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. And if you’re nearby stop into the bookstore in Puerto Morelos. We sold store but Caleb and Nicole are carrying on famously!! I write about all things Mexico do check out my stack!! Buen viaje! And yes, Holbox is still like the old Mexico (at least for now).
Thanks for sharing! The bookstore sounds fantastic and I will definitely stop there next time. So interesting to hear from so many people who spent time in Tulum years ago on how it's changed. And agreed--the train sounds horrible. I really hope people read up on it and reconsider before booking a trip.
Do you think Holbox would be a good place now to upgrade one's Spanish? I'm not a beginning learner but would be nice to find someone with teaching experience.
That's a good question. I'm not sure! Sorry I can't be of more help..