The Pandemic-Proof Gift Guide
And the Best Hotel Cocktail Bars In the World with Alia Akkam
Hello!
It’s gift guide season, so this newsletter is different than normal. ‘Be a better traveler’ tips coming back in the next one.
But first….
The Best Hotel Cocktail Bars
“KOLLÁZS, the restaurant inside the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest, has its own entrance, but when I visit I prefer to reach it through the lobby. This way I can look up at the restored glass cupola overhead and the mosaic tiles at my feet, savouring a taste of what the building was like when it first opened at the beginning of the 20th century. I make my way past the waiters, scuttling across the floor with plates of the signature octopus, scallop and sausage atop a bed of paprika potatoes, to the circular bar dominating one side of the dining room. I sit down–as I often do–alone, yet surrounded by strangers.” –Alia Akkam
Sigh…doesn’t that sound lovely? For now, we have a Q&A With Alia Akkam, Budapest-based author of Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes from the World's Most Iconic Hotels.
How did you decide to write a book focused on hotel bars?
I have always been drawn to the mystery and glamour of hotel bars so the idea had been floating through my mind for quite some time. It wasn't until I started regularly visiting one of the bars at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest that it began to solidify. There are tons of cocktail books out there that focus on recipes and techniques but I've always been more interested in the culture of bars than the mechanics, and I was so glad to be able to shine a light on these establishments, many of which are steeped in history.
How did you narrow it down to 50? It seems so hard to pick!
It was extremely hard to pick, but a few things were important to me that I kept in mind throughout the curation process. First, I wanted the 50 to be culled from around the world and not just focus on the cities that are packed with great hotel bars. Of course there are many more I could have selected from London and New York, for instance, but because I ultimately viewed this book as a guide as much as a coffee table book, I wanted to spotlight various locales. It was also important to me that all the properties were different. Of course many of the ones I featured are classics that people are more than familiar with, but I didn't want all of them to be legacy brands so to speak. There are modern bars that might not be as well known but have a special ambience and are making their own distinctive mark, and I wanted to represent them as well. I wanted there to be diversity and surprise and I am happy with the mix we have showcased. I know I would be delighted to drink in any of them.
Was there anything that surprised you while researching this book?
I have a huge passion for art and design, and I loved seeing how these elements heighten the bar experience. For example, I’ve drank low-key Black Russians before, but when I tried the one at the Hotel Metropole in Brussels, where it was purportedly invented, doing so in such a grand room made a simple libation I took for granted prior feel truly elegant. I never tire of discovering these powerful sensory connections.
You say in the book that London is home to the best hotel bars–why is that?
I am a history geek and many of London's hotels have incredible legacies. That their bars today honor those roots with seamless service and a dedication to quality wows me. Even the contemporary hotel bars channel that old-fashioned sophistication, albeit in more upbeat environments. London bars simply exude class.
You mention a shift in hotel bars that came with the rise of boutique hotels. Can you tell us more about that?
Prior to the advent of boutique hotels, and well after the grande dame heyday, hotel bars were often synonymous with obligation more than intrigue. They were there to serve guests, say, who didn't want to venture into town for an interesting cocktail. These bars might have done the job for a customer who merely wanted their vodka fix, but these bars likely didn't have intention, didn't have soul.
Boutique hotels were born of narrative and showed guests that hotels could and should be an integral part of their holidays or business trips, that hotels could be adventurous and fun. Bars were often the first taste of that excitement. Some were discreet. Some could have been mistaken for nightclubs. Some were downright kitschy. But they had personality and purpose. Bars in boutique hotels became destinations in their own right for locals as much as visitors and that was a turning point. The words experiential and immersive are bandied about now in the hospitality realm, but that's because boutique pioneers paved the way for the myriad colorful lifestyle properties all around the globe that represent these characteristics, many of which have fantastic, energetic bars.
What do you think the future holds for hotel bars?
A hotel bar's allure is sipping among strangers, watching a drink made for you while sitting at a gorgeous bar. That simply cannot be savored right now. But we have to remember that it's temporary. Empty lobbies and shuttered bars are the norm right now but they won't be forever. I have to believe that when this is all over people will be chomping at the bit to travel again, and hotel bars will naturally be part of their itineraries. A bartender-made Negroni seems like the greatest, most unfathomable luxury these days.
Ain’t that the truth!
There are so many great recipes in this book. Have you been making them while at home during lockdown?
Honestly, I'm not the greatest home bartender—I'm rather slow and I tend to make a huge mess—so my boyfriend and I have gotten in the habit of "window whiskey" sessions, sipping everything from Nikka to Maker's Mark, whatever's on our shelf that week, coupled with fresh air and a view of the empty street. My cocktail cravings and moods are always changing and they are usually influenced by the places I am missing most at the time. Right now I'm longing for Amsterdam and canalside strolls, so I've been thinking of the gorgeous Pulitzer bar and gearing up to make a Tesoro.
What’s the hotel bar you’re most excited to visit once we can travel again?
The American Bar at the Stafford London. Not only do I think it's one of London's most underrated hangouts, but pre-pandemic it's where I had planned to celebrate the launch of the book in October. Returning will finally feel celebratory in so many ways.
The book is filled with adorable illustrations and makes a wonderful gift!
The Be a Better Traveler/Eater Holiday Shopping Guide
Holiday travel looks much different this year, but we can still send gifts to the people we love thanks to everyone’s new favorite government agency. From delivering ballots to delivering gifts, what would we do without the USPS?
These are some of my favorite travel/food things, some pandemic-friendly, some for when we can travel again. Which is...not extremely soon but at least there’s light at the end of the tunnel!
First things first
You can gift to the campaigns of Jon Ossoff and Raphael Warnock and to Fair Fight, because don’t we all want a shot at better human rights for Christmas? Can’t have that without the senate.
If you care about restaurants or the people that work in them, Eater has a comprehensive guide on ways you can help this holiday season.
Finally, consider donating to Feeding America, No Kid Hungry, and for Chicago people the Greater Chicago Food Depository. I spoke with someone from No Kid Hungry for a story last week and she told me 14 million kids (!!!) are currently not getting enough meals in the United States. That’s five times as many as last year, and frankly, it’s shameful in a country with a wealth of government resources and a handful of billionaires who could wipe out childhood hunger once and for all if they wanted to.
BOOKS
Books are my go-to gift. Here’s why you should buy from local bookstores or Bookshop.org, and why you should order early.
Some favorite food memoirs, wine books, and cookbooks.
TRAVEL
The best covid face masks. I’m obsessed, especially because the size small is the only mask I’ve found yet that isn’t too big for my face. They’re washable, easy to breathe in, and aren’t giving me as much maskne as others.
Related: Mask chains. The accessory we never could have predicted in 2019.
I’ve raved about these Jungmaven tees before and probably will again. I have them in multiple colors and always travel with at least two.
I own an obscene number of Turkish towels. They’re beautiful and versatile, for the beach or bath or as a light blanket. You’ll see everyone in the Middle East using these and I hope we catch on in the states soon. I wandered into Turkish Modern in Istanbul over the summer and it turns out they also have a shop in San Francisco. Everything on their site would make a lovely gift.
Related: I love Fab India for linens and home decor.
Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask. While this is a skin saver post-flight, I also use it about once a week in Midwest winters.
Anker Portable Charger. Never travel without it.
Could have used this pop-up beach tent in Dubai, but will definitely be purchasing for summer 2021 beach travel.
Noise cancelling headphones are just as useful on Zoom as on the bus.
Help someone get into photography with all this extra down time, so they can take even better travel photos in the future.
Let’s face it, even once there’s a vaccine we’re still going to be wearing masks and sanitizing often. This errand kit is an adorable and functional stocking stuffer, and would work well on flights too.
This body wash feels almost like a spa vacation.
I basically live in caftans now. I started wearing them in Dubai when it was too hot for constricting clothes, and they’re ideal pandemic loungewear. These from Pondicherie are gorgeous and sustainable, or find more affordable options here and here.
Shoes that are comfy enough for miles of exploring but cute enough for cocktails.
I love the Uniqlo Heattech shirts because they transition well from the sweltering desert of the Middle East to the frozen tundra of Chicago and take up next to no space in my bag. I especially like the scoop neck long-sleeve shirts and the sleeveless top.
See more travel accessories and skincare favorites here.
LUGGAGE
I’m loyal to my carry-on, the TravelPro Platinum Elite Expandable Spinner. See all my luggage recommendations here.
EATING/COOKING/DRINKING
Aeropress. Makes high-quality coffee anywhere. I’ve brought this camping, to hotels with dreaded coffee pods, used it in gas station parking lots on road trip stops. You can also use it in the kitchen, of course.
My friend Nancy makes colorful food prints. A fun gift and kitchen decoration.
A Wisconsin Cheese gift basket is just about the best thing you can give.
It’s obvious, but if someone you love enough to splurge on doesn’t have a Le Creuset dutch oven or KitchenAid mixer, you can’t go wrong with either.
Give the gift of fresh mushrooms and microgreens, even in tiny city apartments.
Microplane. My most-used kitchen tool (could be yours too if you make a lot of cacio e pepe).
Everyone needs a basic chef’s knife and good set of wine glasses.
Winter in lockdown is going to be bleak. Probably a good time to perfect your pasta making skills.
Food puzzles make nice stocking stuffers.
I don’t know how I ever baked without pre-cut parchment sheets.
Coupe glasses are back in style. I have my great aunt’s, which look something like these. Take a look around Etsy or other vintage shops for whatever suits your fancy.
I don’t think these actually make sense as cutting boards, but they do make nice cheese boards.
If Samin Nosrat says this is vinegar worth buying, I’m in. (Apparently she likes the celery). And here are some luxury vinegars with packaging so pretty you can tie a bow on them and call it a day.
Californian olive oil, or Italian.
I haven’t actually tried this panettone yet, because so many chefs and food writers have been raving about it on Twitter and it’s sold out. But, you can join me on the waiting list.
Coasters that actually soak up condensation.
This mini fridge is so unnecessary but so cute. Could be useful if we ever go back to offices.
Most of us have wayyy more leftovers these days.
Kribi Coffee is based in Chicago and has giftable packaging, or try Kyoto Black for portable Kyoto-style cold brew. (What’s Kyoto-style cold brew? I wasn’t sure either, but interviewed Kyoto Black founder Justin Doggett for New City last month.)
This is maybe the best strawberry jam in the world.
Cocktail kits, for long flights or Zoom happy hours.
The staple Bloody Mary mix I always stock.
Travel through food with Culinary Backstreet’s gift boxes.
If you’re like me and prefer physical cookbooks to online recipes, gift this to yourself.
Or…Give them a break from cooking.
Wine clubs memberships are a great gift. This one is based in Chicago and sources from small wineries across the country.
Want to give me a gift this holiday season? Share this with a friend or click the heart icon at the top of the post. It helps a lot!
If you’re traveling next week, please, please start isolating now. Stay safe, protect your loved ones, wear your masks, and happy Thanksgiving!!