The Middle East's Best Olive Oil
And how to buy olive oil like a pro
About two hours outside Amman, Jordan, in the middle of a vast desert, sit 155,000 olive trees. They produce some of the Middle East’s highest quality olive oil, all extra-virgin. Their fruit goes through a top-of-the-line Italian press, and the oil is the result of a decade of research and constant tweaking. The farm is the “fifth child” of Ziad Bilbeisi, former architect and founder of Al Maida.
Ziad is making some of, if not the, best olive oil in the Middle East, but also the world. Last year, he took home the bronze medal at the London International Olive Oil Competition, where his oil was up against heavyweights from places like Italy, Spain, and California.
I followed Ziad and his daughter Amelia around for a few days earlier this year and wrote about their operation for The National. For some behind the scenes, see the ‘Olive Oil’ highlight on my Instagram.
The process is impressive, and their goal is a little daunting: educate the entire region, and then the entire world, on what high-quality oil is, and how not to be susceptible to olive oil fraud.
I know this is supposed to be a travel newsletter, but since we’re all spending more time at home these days (you now need a permit to leave home in Dubai), and likely more time in our kitchens, olive oil seems relevant.
What to Look For
Most of what you see on your average grocery store shelf is likely not great olive oil, and in some cases not even extra virgin. Why should you care? Well, when people talk about the health benefits of olive oil and Mediterranean diets, they’re only talking about extra virgin olive oil. The higher-quality oil, the higher the benefits, for the most part.
Unfortunately, companies trick consumers by putting things like “cold pressed” on the label. People see that and think, ‘oh, fancy, this one must be good.’ But all extra virgin olive oil has to be cold pressed, so it means nothing. Look for the fatty acid and peroxide levels instead. To be classified as extra virgin olive oil, fatty acids have to be less than 0.8% (Al Maida’s run at 0.2%), and peroxide levels should be under 20 (theirs are under 10).
Taste would be another reason.
“If consumers can learn to taste, they have the power,” Amelia told me.
She also said many people actually prefer rancid olive oil in blind tastings, because that’s what they’re accustomed to. Crazy! Luckily, there are a few basic taste rules you can follow: the oil should have an element of tart fruitiness; should cleanse your palate, not stick to it; and should not scratch the back of your throat (that means it’s oxidised).
Amelia and Ziad are both Olive Oil Sommeliers, an intense and extremely difficult certification. Find more of their tips and learn about their family operation here.
Become an Olive Oil Expert
If you want to do a deep dive, Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil is the best book I’ve come across on the subject and reads like a thriller. Highly recommend.
There’s also this Bon Appetit guide on How to Buy Olive Oil, Seven Ways to Tell If Your Olive Oil Is Fake from Epicurious, The World of Olive Oil is Murky: Help for the Home Cook from the NYT, and An Introduction to Olive Oil Tasting from Olive Oil Times (the authorities on the subject). You could even sign up for the Olive Oil Sommelier certification yourself.
One last thing: you can cook with olive oil! Many people think it’s best for drizzling, and there are some special oils you might want to save for that purpose, but it’s also a great all-purpose cooking oil. You can even fry with it. All that smoke point stuff you’ve heard before is a myth.
When We Can Travel Again…
In January, I visited the Guinness Brewery, which is open to the public for the first time EVER in the brand’s 261-year history. It’s one of those touristy things that are very worth doing. I wrote about it for United’s Hemispheres magazine, but like most airline mags those weren’t printed this month. You can see it online here if you’re interested, and if you’re planning to visit Dublin once we can move around again, add it to your list.
Calling All Illustrators
My brother and Curiosity Magazine co-founder Rob wrote a beautiful children’s book and is hoping to collaborate with illustrators.
When I Was Older is a fun and insightful story picture book that sparks wonder about humanity’s past and encourages respect for its future.
In When I Was Older, eight children wonder what life was like in different eras throughout history. The children take turns recounting past lives in rhyming passages, taking readers on an exciting journey through a Malian marketplace, an Indian kingdom, a Polynesian island, and more. Along the way, readers are introduced to a broad array of topics in science, literature, and world history.
I am looking for a diverse group of illustrators to bring this story to life.
Learn more about the characters and how to get in touch here.
Links I Love
This is a very enjoyable four minutes.
The Exceptionalism of the French Yogurt Aisle
The African Migrants Getting Healthy Food to Italians
If you want to dream about travel and hear what it’s like to be a woman all over the world, check out fellow writer Theresa’s The Wild and Curious podcast
Recommendations
Eat: It feels like summer in Dubai already, so I’ve been making zucchini bread, zucchini fritters, sauteed zucchini…any other ideas?
Drink: I’ve been mixing up lots of sparkling water/lemon juice/fresh mint/honey. So healthy, right? But now it’s the weekend, and we’re sick of Netflix, so we’re going to attempt beer pong with makeshift supplies (and only two people). Luckily we stocked up on cases of Miller Lite before Dubai instituted the permit rule. You can take the girl out of Wisconsin…
Do: I’ve really been enjoying language learning on Preply. It forces me to do something with my brain, and gives me a reason to speak to someone outside my house.