The maybe too late but hopefully still useful gift guide
Plus a 19-hour train trip and Chicago recommendations
Hello!
Welcome to the end of the year, when everything feels rushed and slow at the same time. At least for me. It feels like Christmas, aka when I go vacation, will never get here, but at the same time I have so much to do before then that I wish there were more days in between.
I hope you’re all crossing off your to-do lists and finding time for merriment and relaxation this holiday season. It can feel weird, even wrong, to celebrate amid so much devastating news. (Really, doesn’t it seem like everything is bad lately?) But I think those of us lucky enough to live should embrace it, while also embracing our minds and voices to inform ourselves and call our representatives.
19 Hours on The City of New Orleans
Last weekend, we took the train from New Orleans to Chicago for Nathan’s holiday party. The Amtrak City of New Orleans route covers 900 miles in 19 hours and was much nicer than I expected. This isn’t Europe––it’s not that nice––but if you get a roomette or a room it’s comfortable. We boarded at 2:45 p.m. on Thursday afternoon and within 30 minutes were passing cypress trees in the majestic Louisiana swamps. The observation car has floor-to-ceiling windows, which would be especially nice in the summer with more daylight.
Dinner, one alcoholic beverage, and breakfast are included in your ticket if you book a roomette, with additional snacks for purchase. And unlike airplanes, you can bring all the food and alcohol you want on board. I had an “Asian noodles salad” for dinner, which was broccoli, edamame, shredded carrots and cabbage with noodles and a sauce. It was…totally fine. Nathan had a ham and cheese sandwich on a pretzel bun that was microwaved in a bag.
After dinner we retired to our room, which had a tiny bathroom and bunk beds, plus a sink, chair, and foldout table. Bring reading material, because the WiFi did not work the entire trip. This has been an issue on the majority of Amtrak trips I’ve taken. The beds were surprisingly comfortable, though I can’t say I got an amazing night of sleep. Trains are bumpy and loud, after all.
We woke up to sunrise over Illinois prairie, happy to be back in the Midwest. After some oatmeal and coffee we packed up and watched Chicago come into view. The Amtrak is not the fastest or even cheapest way to get from New Orleans to Chicago or vice versa, but it was a lot of fun, especially for a one-way trip. I definitely recommend it, though I think sitting in a chair the entire time would be significantly less enjoyable. If you can, spring for a roomette.
This is a fun, longer read on the trip.
December in Chicago
I love how festive the city looks in December and it was nice to be somewhere chilly, where snowy decorations and evergreens look appropriate. (After two days, I was glad to be back in 60-degree Louisiana). We were there for Nathan’s work holiday party and to see friends and their babies. I went to the Christkindlmarket, of course, and saw The Nutcracker. I can’t believe I lived in Chicago for so long and never saw the Joffrey Ballet! They were incredible, and The Nutcracker performance has a Chicago twist, which was really fun.
We went to Nettare, a new restaurant in Ukrainian Village, with friends. There were some opening month kinks, but overall it was good and has a nice cozy vibe. After, we stopped at the (also new) Golden Years. This is such a great Chicago neighborhood and the ability to walk from restaurant to bar (with plenty of other places we could have gone along the street) made me want to move back.
We had excellent bagel sandwiches at Schneider Deli in River North. I think this is also new-ish. It was absolutely packed with a line out the door, which made me think someone else should open a sandwich or breakfast spot nearby. This area has always felt kind of corporate and devoid of any good, casual restaurants, so this really fills a need. I wanted the entire menu and will definitely be back for lunch.
Spotlight On–Maman Zari
Back in July we visited Chicago briefly but I never wrote about it. A highlight of that trip was dinner at Maman Zari, a Persian tasting menu experience in Albany Park. This was one of the more beautiful and delicious meals I’ve had in a long time, and one of the most affordable tasting menus I’ve ever seen.
The idea behind Maman Zari is to “expand peoples’ ideas of Persian food.” I’m not sure what idea you have of Persian food, but I know a lot of people think of it as rice and kebabs, which are wonderful and a go-to comfort food, but not all the cuisine has to offer. Maman Zari takes traditional dishes and puts a spin on or elevates them. Think mirza ghasemi, a traditional eggplant and tomato dish, served with rice chips that mimic tahdig, the coveted crunchy bottom of one of Iran’s most famous rice dishes. A highlight of the summer menu was abdoogh khiar, chilled yogurt soup with cucumber, raisins, and walnuts. A glance at the winter menu makes me want to get back on the train.
The nine-course vegetarian or standard tasting menu at Maman Zari is $85. Wine pairings are $45.
Things I love/Gift Ideas
I realize it’s getting late to order gifts, but maybe some of you are as behind as I am. (Actually, my family is doing homemade gifts this year. Could be nice or a disaster. Stay tuned). No commissions or anything here. These are a just few of my most-loved/most-used travel and cooking items. Maybe you’ll find some of them useful.
Travel Gifts
I’ve extolled the virtues of the TravelPro Platinum Elite Expandable Spinner before and I will vouch for it forever. Hands down the best carry-on. Comes with a lifetime warranty. After seven years of dragging mine over cobblestones, through sand, and otherwise putting it through major wear and tear, a wheel finally gave out. I filled out a form and had a new one within days, and they sent a labeled box to ship the old one back. (For what it’s worth, Wirecutter recommends this bag too.)I usually travel with that and this backpack, which fits much more than it looks like it will.
I don’t always use packing cubes, but if I’m going to I like these that compress.
An international charger is a must. A nice passport holder is a luxury.
My plane bag always has these notebooks, this lotion (can be used on hands and face, great for dry planes), an oversized scarf, a book, Airpods, sunglasses, this chapstick, and an eye mask. Depending on the length of the flight I’ll also bring a neck pillow. I was not a believer in neck pillows (didn’t think they were worth the hassle of carrying one), until a long flight to Ghana.
My toiletries go in this bag. A few things always in that bag: this sunscreen (super lightweight), Lumify eye drops (amazing to fake being awake and not jet lagged), this makeup remover balm, under eye brightening masks, this tinted moisturizer, and lately I am very into these tinted lip balms.
The silhouette on this Patagonia raincoat makes it appropriate for cities or outdoor activities. Plus it packs down super small. I got it way on sale at the Patagonia outlet in Reno, but would pay full price now that I know how much I like it.
This speaker is great for beach/camping trips. And this knife and wine bottle opener is the perfect picnic tool. And Gatorade packets were a recent lifesaver on a Vegas trip.
TSA Precheck!! As I’ve said before, this is one of the easiest, fastest, government processes, and so worthwhile. It’s hard to give as a gift, but if you pay for this for someone in your life they’ll be grateful. (It’s also free with most travel credit cards).
Kitchen Gifts
Some items I use most while cooking that also make good gifts are my microplane, this nonstick pan (in multiple sizes), my dutch oven, vegetable peeler (this serrated one is also great for squash), my rice cooker (how did I make rice on the stove for so many years?), cast iron (you can buy one new or better yet find one at an antique store that’s already seasoned), these parchment paper sheets for baking, this cutting board, and kitchen towels (you can never have too many!). I use this Mueller water boiler every morning to make coffee, and every afternoon to make tea. These knives are amazing, though likely won’t arrive by Christmas.
I like this oil and vinegar set, and this pepper grinder. A wine pump is a great stocking stuffer, while a Coravin is an even nicer gift.
Pretty wood cheese boards are a great hostess gift. All of ours are from farmer’s markets (mostly the one in Grand Rapids, Mich.), which are great places to look for gifts in general.
My dad got me this coffee mug last year and it’s the best travel mug I’ve ever used. Completely leak proof, fits in car coffee holders, not too bulky.
This composter has been a game changer. (And this bin). Our trash has gone down to one small grocery bag’s worth of trash per week, if that.
Food Gifts
Food gifts make great stocking stuffers. Some things around my kitchen right now that I love: This Little Goat Lime Chili Crunch (not to replace regular chili crisp, because it’s pretty different), Monteverde gnocchi, Milk Street Sofrito, minced ginger or garlic (you can buy this at any grocery store––great for when you’re in a hurry or just really don’t feel like chopping), tomato paste, Sicilian pistachio spread (amazing on rye with Pecorino), Maldon salt, Ghia (a great aperitif with alcohol or soda water), Wisconsin cheese, and pepper jelly (my dad made this, and it’s so good, and if you’re up for it a great homemade gift idea).
I really miss the CSA we used in Chicago, and if you know someone in the area a year’s subscription would make a great gift.
Wine is an always appreciated gift (if you know they drink), and local wine shops are the best places to shop for recommendations.
Finally, travel and food magazine subscriptions are an easy gift that gives all year long.
Weekend Reading
Auditioning for empathy. Related: This photograph demands an answer
Brazil reckons with dark side of açaí: Rampant, dangerous child labor
A Sri Lankan baker’s baguette conquers France
French police stop a €600,000 wine heist
Years into a climate disaster, these people are eating the unthinkable
What happens when Taylor Swift visits a New York City restaurant?
How to acquire things, British museum style
Chicago’s Greatest Chefs of All Time
Down the Mississippi, a historic Black town fears the end. It’s a warning for coastal Louisiana.
Why is Dallas on the cover of this DC guidebook?
Lol ⤵️
Inside Poland Spring’s attacks on the water rules it didn’t like
Beware if you’re booking a New Orleans Airbnb for Mardi Gras
Alone at the edge of the world
Forbidden Fruit: The anti-avocado militias of Michoacán
The monster that feeds and eats away at Lake Tahoe
The many contrasts of oil-rich UAE, host of the global climate talks (So many lines in this sum up how I felt while living there)
Six Maps Explain the Boundaries of Israel and Palestine
The Rigid World of French Cheesemaking Meets Climate Change
The year in sensitive content (I think this accurately describes how bizarre social media use is lately)
I saw a PEW study last week that said 50% (!!!) of people don’t use all their vacation days. Let’s change that in 2024.
Among more depressing (and important) topics, I wrote about sugar, sugar cane syrup, and rum (made from sugar cane) for work.
Random Recommendations:
Watch: All the cheesy holiday movies, obviously. I’m also watching the most recent season of The Great British Bake Off. I missed a few seasons but am completely invested in this one.
Read: My goal was to read 52 fiction and 52 nonfiction books this year. I failed, miserably. I’m currently on book 34. I’ll share my favorites of the year next week, but in the meantime, what have you read that you loved this year? What should I put on my 2024 list? (This is on the list already!)
Listen: The Retrievals is not a light listen, but so well done.
Cook: Hanukkah may be over, but we’re still having latkes tonight. In the spirit of the holidays, I made these cookies, and these (so good), and this cranberry tart.
Ok, that was long! Hope you all have wonderful weekends. My work holiday party is in New Orleans tomorrow, and next week we have some fun, Louisiana-specific Christmas activities planned. I’ll write about those next time, and will also be sharing some life news soon. So stay tuned!
–Rebecca 💛
Thanks for the great lists--both gifts and reading. I always enjoy your reading links. 52 books in a year is a very aggressive goal! I’m a huge reader (mostly before bed) and I can only read two books a month if they’re not too thick. I just finished The Vaster Wilds by Lauren Groff--maybe the most beautifully written book I have read in a long time. (Well, except for Maggie O’Farrell’s books, which are lyrically crafted). Anyway, add Lauren Groff to your list. I will be trying another of her books soon. But hey, no pressure.
ps. I also love train travel (did Milwaukee to Seattle for our honeymoon back in the 90s), and many trips up and down the northeast corridor now that we live back in New England. Why, why, why can’t Amtrak fix the damn WiFi? Oh well, I guess more time for reading Lauren Groff. ;-) Merry Christmas.