Is it ethical to visit the South?
Plus San Sebastián travel tips, Maryland 🦀, how to help Pakistan flood victims, & more
Hello!
Hope you all had nice holiday weekends. I spent mine in Ocean City, a place filled with nostalgia for family vacations past. My dad is from Maryland and we used to travel to Ocean City in the late summers, before visiting my grandma. More on that later.
Driving through Maryland, I was surprised by how many Trump 2024 signs lined the highways, how many bumper stickers supporting guns were stuck above Maryland license plates, and how many people had t-shirts, towels, and other paraphernalia saying derogatory things about Joe Biden and Kamala Harris. It got me thinking about conversations happening in some of my online travel writing groups lately.
Namely: should you travel to the South?
Ever since Roe v. Wade was overturned in June, these groups have been filled with writers saying they won’t travel to Texas, Florida, Mississippi. etc. I get the sentiment. Abortion is now illegal in 12 Southern states (depending on where you draw the line for ‘South’), and politicians in many of those states have vowed to take away numerous other rights as well.
Tourism is somewhat economically important for states (much more important in some than others), and travel writers have more impact than other visitors. We bring attention to places through our articles. But, I’m sure people aside from travel writers have been reconsidering as well.
So, is it ethical to visit the South right now?
I think it depends. If you don’t want to visit anywhere that bans abortion, that covers a lot more than the South, including my home state of Wisconsin. But I would never feel that someone shouldn’t visit Wisconsin! They would miss out on the very progressive, fun, beautiful cities of Madison and Milwaukee, incredible state parks, and some of my favorite restaurants in the country. (Not to mention that by dining in those restaurants, they would be supporting independent business owners who donate money and time to pro-choice and other progressive causes.)
Most of the travel writers I’ve seen talking about not visiting the South are conveniently not mentioning Louisiana, even though the state bans abortion, because everyone loves New Orleans AND knows that it’s packed with liberal people doing great things for their community. Funny how this nuance can be understood for some places but not others. No one is mentioning Utah, because ski trips are sacred? I thought about this a lot in Maryland, because no one is saying they won’t visit Maryland, even though large parts of the state are filled with racist, anti-abortion voters. As are large parts of every state––including New York, California, and Illinois, where many of these writers are based––but you don’t see people breaking states down into counties they won’t visit.
I talked about this with my friend Joe Sills, a travel writer from Memphis.
“I’ve been grappling hard with my Southernness,” he said. “Is it ethical to visit the South right now? I would say that to paint the South with such a broad brush is such a disservice to some of the most diverse cities in America. Look, as someone who identifies as a liberal who lives in a city with a really checkered past…I am mad at my government. I hate them. They disgust me.”
But do you want people like Joe to move out of Tennessee? Don’t you want those people to stay, and vote? If so, you should want to keep businesses alive that also support your beliefs, so more people can live there and hopefully create change in the future.
If you don’t want to visit anywhere where human rights are under attack, you would cut out huge swaths of the earth, including much of the U.S. The point of travel is to broaden your horizons, and tourists can also broaden the horizons of the people they meet on their travels. In Iraq in May, I spent long days in a courthouse and was surprised how many young women came up to me to ask how I felt about the recent Roe v. Wade decision. I learned that abortion was more common than I thought in parts of Iraq (because abortion is always more common than people think, and happens all over the world whether or not it’s legal), and they learned more about how our court system works. Will there be this kind of nice, interesting dialogue wherever you travel? Probably not. But you never know.
So, I think you can visit the South, with caveats:
You cannot leave politics at home. A writer I admire posted this on Instagram in 2019 in light of a controversial citizenship law in India:
“The act of travel is directly related to politics. The places we visit, the things we do, the food we eat, the culture we consume, the music we listen to are not separate from the politics that shape them. Western travelers may think that it is better for them to separate travel from politics. That espousing neutrality and projecting a sense of impartiality is the best route. But when they are silent on state violence, when they continue to exhibit the countries, cities, and disputed territories they visit without presenting the context of oppression, they are protecting their own privilege.”
Visit Texas, or Wisconsin or Florida or wherever, but go in eyes open to the numerous issues and be prepared to speak out.
It’s all about the money.
Tourism helps economies, whether in Italy, China, or the United States. But often, tourists can use their dollars to help individuals, rather than oppressive governments. I’ve written about this before, specifically about the ethics of visiting Saudi Arabia. In summary, I am irritated by the influencers and travel writers going there and touting progress and posting fashiony photos in abayas when the government is still doing things like this and this. Saudi Arabia is different to me than other places with oppressive regimes because almost everything is government-owned, so it’s very hard to not have your tourism dollars support the government. (I do feel compelled to point out though, that Saudi Arabia’s abortion law is more liberal than some U.S. states.)
Unlike in some other countries, it is very easy to give your money to individuals in the U.S. It requires some research, but you can easily read about restaurants, bed & breakfasts, museums, etc. that are operating within your values.
Tourism dollars provide livelihoods for millions of people. Encouraging people not to visit the South and cutting millions of people in service-related industries off from income doesn’t seem like the solution. I get the sentiment of wanting Greg Abbott or Ron DeSantis to suffer, but I doubt think they care whether liberal-leaning tourists visit or not.
If your policy is that you don’t want to give governments with atrocious human rights records money, then you should be telling people to never visit the United States.
You should forget going to England, or France, or Hungary. Turkey is out, as is Argentina, South Africa, Egypt, Australia, Thailand, Dominican Republic––-I’m trying to be equitable among continents here, but the fact is once you go down this path, there’s almost nowhere you can visit in good conscience. Sure, it’s a scale. Some places are definitely better than others (hello New Zealand and Northern Europe), but where do you draw the line? Do women’s rights only matter to you at home? Because if you’re not going to visit Texas, you better not accept a press trip invite to Petra.
Bottom line: visit wherever you want, but be extra thoughtful about where your money is going. Seek out people and businesses to support that could use your patronage, like these in Texas or these in Louisiana. You could donate to a local abortion fund or non-profit for every trip you take to a state with an abortion ban. (“I’ll Have What She’s Having” supports hospitality workers seeking abortion in Texas, for example.) If you write about the trip or post on social media, be honest about the issues there and highlight businesses others can support. But painting entire states filled with millions of people with a broad brush does a disservice to everyone. There are blue islands in every sea of red. It’s work to keep them afloat, but abandoning those islands when their government already has isn’t where tourism should go.
Have you tried the new Substack app? It’s great if you prefer opening an app to getting endless emails, and it keeps all your subscriptions in one place.
Travel for the Food
A good Maryland crab cake is something I dream about every summer, and it’s one of the first foods I name when giving examples of ‘American cuisine.’ It’s hyper-regional and dates back to Native Americans living near the Chesapeake Bay. In Ocean City, get them at the Original Crabcake Factory. In Annapolis, go to the Boatyard Bar & Grill. Outside of the mid-Atlantic? Forget about it.
Thrasher’s fries, aka “boardwalk fries” are another Ocean City highlight, but these are replicable. The potatoes are cut on an angle, fried twice, doused with vinegar and salt, and served in buckets. You can find similar boardwalk fries across the country, though they are said to have originated in Maryland.
Wine of the Week
Nathan and I celebrated our one-year anniversary over the weekend, so naturally I’m recommending Franciacorta, the wine we toasted with in Italy last year! (I wrote about Franciacorta for The Guardian if you want to know more).
Speaking of weddings, I was thinking about writing a post on how we planned a wedding abroad/more details about everything we did. Would that be incredibly boring, or would anyone find it useful/entertaining?
Reader Questions Answered–San Sebastián
I visited San Sebastián in 2019 and it 100% lived up to the hype as one of the best food cities on earth. Here’s what I did on that trip. My favorite meal was La Cuchara de San Telmo, but everything I ate was worth taking another trip just to taste again. Cannot wait to go back. In the meantime, I sent your questions to Marti Buckley, an award-winning author, trained chef, and industry expert on Spanish and Basque cuisine.
She’s the author of the acclaimed cookbook, Basque Country, and she co-authored the Wallpaper* City Guide Bilbao/San Sebastián. She lives with her two daughters in San Sebastián, where she has called home since 2010. Her second cookbook will be out in fall of 2023. Let’s get to it!
Is it worth it to go on a guided pintxos tour? (If so, is there one you like?)
Pintxos can easily be done to great effect without a tour. However, if you don’t speak Spanish, hate researching for trips, or are somewhat timid, a tour could be a good option.
Best view in the city?
This view is even better when you stumble unwittingly onto it. On Mount Urgull, the small mountain springing up from the old town, there is a cafe-bar that looks out over the sea, the island, and the curved coast. It’s stunning.
Most romantic nook?
I love the window table at the restaurant Arenales. They have a great natural wine list and in the evening it’s such a cozy place to sit, eat, and watch people stroll down the Boulevard.
Where to find the best octopus?
La Cuchara de San Telmo or Borda Berri. They both make a similar charred octopus pintxo that is the perfect mix of smoky grill taste and tenderness.
I'd love to hear your thoughts on pintxos culture!
Pintxos are probably the funnest way to eat in the entire world. All the food spread out across the top of a bar, grab what you want, chat with people around you, and then on to the next one. Their history and evolution is also fascinating, and I explore it in my upcoming cookbook!
Any thoughts on Basque language?
Euskara, the Basque language, is one of the world’s cultural treasures. It’s the oldest European language and of unknown origin. the cornerstone of Basque culture. It was late to being written and all the (extremely different) dialects were kind of a linguistic Wild West until 1968, when the language was standardized under the label Euskara Batua, Residents from one side of a province may have trouble understanding those from the opposite end. It’s incredible.
Favorite splurge restaurant?
It’s not in San Sebastián, but my favorite “top” restaurant is Asador Etxebarri. I’ve been going for 13 years, when it used to be a pop-in-and-have-a-steak kind of place, and it never fails to impress, against the most beautiful backdrop.
What would you do besides eat?
Basque Country is so blessed when it comes to the natural world. My favorite activities in San Sebastián consist of hiking the three different mountains, and swimming and surfing the three different beaches.
Is it necessary to have a rental car?
Not at all. There is enough to keep you busy in San Sebastián for weeks, and the city as a whole is super walkable. Actually, I recommend NOT bringing a car, as they’re a big headache to park.
Best time of year to visit?
September is virtually the only month you’re guaranteed good weather. We get around 220 days of rain here.
What do most people drink with pintxos? I don't want to order wrong!
You can drink wine or beer. Txakoli or rioja are the most common wines to order, but there is a variety of wines available at every bar. Beer is also very common, and you can order a smaller one (zurito) that can help with the pacing. People also order cider sometimes, and those who don’t want alcohol order mosto, or grape juice.
Do you have a favorite boutique hotel, something not too expensive but cute?
Lodging in San Sebastián can get expensive, especially in summer. We’ve had nearly 30 new hotels open in the last three years, so there’s a lot more choice than there used to be. The boutique hotel scene is a bit lacking to tell the truth…most hotels that aren’t chains just aren’t that well done, and if they are they are quite expensive. Hotel Niza is a classic, family-owned spot in a great location. Far Out Inn has spectacular views and is very homey. OneShot Tabakalera is part of a small chain, but I always feel it is a great, stylish value for money.
How to Be a Better Traveler in San Sebastián
I think being a better traveler in San Sebastián is similar to being a better traveler in other places—it’s all about respecting the local culture. Ask questions, get involved. The Basques are fiercely proud, and their political nationalist movement is a very sensitive subject with a violent past that has affected many local families. The positive side of that is the incredible Basque culture itself, which has at its heart the language. Learn a few words, like ‘kaixo’ for hello and ‘agur’ for goodbye, to ingratiate yourself with the locals.
Thank you, Marti! You can follow her on Instagram @martibuckley and on her blog, www.travelcookeat.com
Be a Better Traveler–Places You Won’t Likely Visit But Should Know About Edition
A few things happening around the world that haven’t gotten tons of media attention and might not be on your radar:
In Somalia, more than 7.1 million people — roughly half of the population — are in need of food assistance. One out of every five children in the country will face deadly forms of malnutrition by October should current conditions remain. War in Ukraine has caused bread shortages, making a bad situation much worse. From the Washington Post: “Eyewitness accounts detail scenes of unending misery, as countless hungry children succumb to otherwise preventable diseases. “We are burying babies and watching with heartbreak as mothers cry because they don’t know what to feed their children, now dying of hunger and thirst, and drought robs families of crops and livestock, their only source of income,” Daud Jiran, Somalia country director for humanitarian organization Mercy Corps, said in an email.”More on this story here.
In Pakistan, catastrophic flooding has killed more than 1,300 people and has forced millions from their homes. One-third of the country is underwater.
Both of these disasters are climate-related. Pakistan is responsible for less than 1% of the world's planet-warming gasses, European Union data shows, yet it is the eighth most vulnerable nation to the climate crisis, according to the Global Climate Risk Index. Somalia contributes less than 0.003% of greenhouse gas emissions, yet farmers are suffering from extreme drought.
In Afghanistan, the situation a year out from the U.S. departure is dire. A recent UN report detailed “staggering regression in women and girls’ enjoyment of civil, political, economic, social and cultural rights.” It notes that “in no other country have women and girls so rapidly disappeared from all spheres of public life.” The economy has collapsed, there are random attacks across the country, and a recent report warned that the Hazara community is at risk for genocide.
Ok, so…what can you do? It can be hard to read so many depressing stories and not know how to help. For immediate action, you can donate to the organizations below. We’re not going to stop climate change at this point, but we can stop some of the worst effects by electing politicians who make it a priority. People around the world are relying on the countries that emit the most greenhouse gasses (China and the U.S.) to change course as quickly as possible.
Donate:
My friend Arif Dost was working as an IT engineer with the US military prior to its withdrawal from Afghanistan. He was evacuated, and over the past year made a difficult journey through South America to an ICE detention center in California. He is now staying with a sponsor in New Jersey.
“I had such a very horrible journey full of difficulties, fear, and risks but finally made it,” he told me. ”I have been in the Panama rainforest for three days, each day walking from 6 a.m. until 7 p.m. and also many more very dangerous stories happened to me on making it to the U.S. I had nights without sleep, and days of very little food.”
Now, Arif is seeking a lawyer to assist him at a meeting with DHS and ICE on Sept. 20. Without one, he could be deported back to Afghanistan, where he would be in extreme danger for working with the U.S. If anyone knows a pro bono lawyer who can help, please reach out. In the meantime, Aris has a GoFundMe to help with living and legal expenses. Thank you!!
Weekend Reading
Loved this dive into Seacrets, an Ocean City staple, by Natalie Compton at By the Way
Also loving Jesse Hirsch’s newsletter about surplus grocery finds
In a tense political moment, Taiwanese food tells its own story
Big news for passenger rights! (One MAJOR win: “if an airline cancels or significantly changes your flight, you are entitled to a full cash refund. Period.”)
Should Europe ban Russian tourists?
The withering of Algerian wine
Disaster at 18,200 feet (A long, suspenseful read you’ll want to settle in for)
How countries use food to win friends and influence people
Do you live in a news desert?
It’s getting harder to be a woman in America
Pretty excited for “Don’t Worry, Darling,” not gonna lie.
Next time: Aeolian Islands travel tips. And some big life changes… ALSO–send me your questions about Mexico City for the next expert Q&A!
If you liked the newsletter today, please pass it to someone you know who’d enjoy it, and tap the heart icon above, which helps me reach more readers. Back in your inbox in two weeks.
–Rebecca 💛
Being mindful of where to spend and not spend your money is a great way to still feel the freedom to go where you please while not being supportive of something disagreeable. I will say, as a person who is from the south(but not in favor of certain recent developments) I was almost put off, but I appreciate that it is known that what has happened is the result of a small group of people making unpopular decisions on the "behalf" of everyone else. Still visit the south, it is beautiful and a world all it's own, but yes, there are certain people here who are not worth giving the time of day.
As someone who currently lives in Indiana, moved back to Indiana last summer after six years in Texas, and considers myself from Michigan, all the yes. States are not monoliths, citizens are more diverse than we know unless we visit, and we can positively impact the politics of the places we visit. I recently wrote a piece for The Educator's Room that talks about this issue, but related to where we choose to live.