How to spend 72 hours in Amman
And what to know about traveling to Jordan now
Good morning -
I’m opening the Monday newsletter to free subscribers today and handing it over to Angela Huddleston, a humanitarian consultant and travel writer who lives in Amman. Jordan is a really special place to me. Tourism in Jordan was thriving in the first quarter of this year, but I know many people are nervous to visit the region now. That’s understandable, but for what it’s worth, I would still feel safe traveling there. Angela has more on that in today’s post. Whether you’re planning a trip this year, hoping to visit one day in the future, or just want to know more about this beautiful country, I hope you enjoy!
Check out Angela’s blog, Yalla Habibti, and follow her on Instagram.
I first arrived to Amman, Jordan in 2015 – in the middle of summer AND at the end of Ramadan (the month where Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset) to visit a long-time friend of mine who was living here at the time. We did the touristy things you would expect (Dead Sea & Petra) and also some of the more ‘off-the-beaten path’ things (Karak Castle).
It was a good trip, and got me out of my head (and processing a recent break-up), but I didn’t fall in love with the country at that time. Nor on my next trip (or the one after, or the one after, or the one after).
Now, most of those were work related, so I spent my time going from hotel to office, and not really getting out much. I do remember eating some really nice falafel out by the 7th circle (more on that later), and having a coffee with a friend somewhere close to the 1st circle and the famous “Rainbow Street”.
In 2022, I was sent by my humanitarian organization to our regional office in Amman for 6 weeks, to support the scale up of their response to the Russian invasion in the Ukraine. I stayed around the 2nd circle, much more central to the city, and only THEN did I really fall for this city and country.
So much so, I moved there in 2023, and have been living there ever since!
Amman, originally the city of 7 hills (or “jabals”), is easy enough to get around, particularly now that you have your choice between Uber, Careem and normal taxis. And there is so much to see and do here!
Whether you are travelling through here for a long weekend, or on your way to see more of the sights of Jordan, here’s my suggestions for how to spend 72 hours in Amman, as someone who has travelled to this city for over 10 years, and has lived here for 2.5 years now.
History & Background
This region has been inhabited for thousands of years, with even the earliest evidence of settlement in Amman dating back to the 8th millenia BC. But Amman as it is today is a relatively young city, particularly when you compare it to the histories of its neighbors in Beirut, Damascus or Jerusalem.
In the 3rd century BC, it became known as Philadelphia under the Greco-Roman empires, but was largely abandoned during the Ottoman empire, which controlled this area from the 15th century, until the break-up of the Ottoman empire after World War I.
When the British empire then took over control in 1921, it declared Amman as the capital of Transjordan, and expanded infrastructure over the 7 hills (and then many many more. Allegedly Amman now considers 21 hills as a part of the Greater Amman Municipality!). Refugees fleeing Palestine in 1948 and 1967, as well as more refugees from Iraq (90s), Syria (2010s) and more Palestinians since then (sadly, too many waves to count), contributed to building it closer into what you see today.
Nowadays, Amman is the largest city in Jordan, with a population of over 4 million people. East Amman is the older, and hosts a number of historical and cultural sites. West Amman has been more modernized (even with skyscrapers) and serves as the economic center of the city.
Safety
Amman is a shockingly safe city to get around in. I was planning to write that for a capital city, it’s incredibly safe, but honestly, it’s safe. Full stop. I leave my laptop, wallet, phone, etc. sitting at a café table while I step away (whether for a few minutes or even an hour or so!) ALL THE TIME. And so does everyone else!
A friend that just arrived here recently went to our local phone store to get a new SIM card and found herself waiting inside the shop, alone, for 15 minutes before the owner came back. I wasn’t surprised…
*I am writing this in mid-June 2025, at a time when the region itself is escalating in insecurities. See my post about what I did during the first few days of the escalation here. But I also would be remise to call out that this is a time of uncertainty, and while the city itself continues to be safe, I really hope the region calms down a bit more so as to not make us feel like we are stuck in this (mostly landlocked) country.
As per most advice, though, when considering safety in Amman, stay alert, use your common sense and ENJOY. And maybe register with your local embassy, just in case.
Oh, and yes, it’s safe to walk around with headphones on. (I do at night even, but if you don’t feel comfortable, of course you don’t have to follow my lead).
If you have someone following you in a way that makes you feel unsafe, you can say you will call the police (use 911), head to a police station, or even just head into the closest restaurant to ask for assistance.
For women: As a woman living in this city, I do have to note that catcalling does exist here. I usually find that it’s teenage or adolescent boys driving around town, calling out of their cars, but can sometimes it can also be a comment on the street. I personally have never had anyone actually approach me in any menacing manner, but I’m also not saying it doesn’t happen. Comparatively to other major cities, I do think it’s much less frequent here (maybe the language barrier helps?), but it may happen. I usually yell and make a few hand gestures if it gets too overwhelming, but I also find that walking with headphones on also helps me to just ignore it.
Language
I moved to Jordan to hopefully improve my Arabic, which sadly, has not gotten too much better over the last 2.5 years. Of course, I have to own the fact that I didn’t build in enough time to learn it, or at least was too busy/exhausted at work to focus.
But that said, English is increasingly spoken across the city. From restaurants, to Uber drivers, to the ticket-seller at the cultural site, it’s fairly easy to get by in English. Particularly in Amman.
That said, having a few Arabic words goes a long way in just opening up conversation and increasing hospitality.
Getting Around
As mentioned at the start, you have lots of options for getting around in Amman.
Yes, you can rent a car at the airport, at your hotel or at a local car rental agency, but be aware you will struggle with traffic and parking. But if that’s how you roll, you do you.
Otherwise, the best options continue to be Uber, Careem, and taxis. You have to have an account with the car share services, but they accept whatever credit/debit card you already had on your account, or you can switch to cash.
All options are very common, very prevalent, very cheap and very fast. An Uber/Careem that takes about 15 minutes to drive usually costs between 1-2 Jordanian dinars, and arrives in 2-3 minutes.
Expect taxis to be cash only, and negotiate your price in advance. Although taxis do have taxi meters, they tend not to use them. So agree on the price before you get into the car, so you save yourself a fight later.
Walking continues to be one of my favorite ways to get around to places, and in Amman it’s no different. You will find, though, that Jordanians don’t commonly walk places. Some of this is cultural or weather related, but also they have not created the best sidewalks. I do walk here and commonly find myself walking on the side of the street rather than on a sidewalk. They also aren’t super accessible for persons with disabilities or families with strollers.
Local Tips
The work week is Sunday through Thursday. This leaves Friday as very quiet (although a visit to the Friday market downtown or Souk Jara, the Friday farmers market on Rainbow Street, is a good way to spend your time, if you are there on Friday). Saturday is when everyone runs their errands, so town is pleasantly busy. Check opening times of places though, just to make sure they aren’t closed on the time you are planning to go.
Be careful walking places. The maps may say it’s only 20 minutes away, but they don’t count for the hills and the stairs! Oh, the stairs!
In Ubers, Careems and taxis, it’s common for the passengers to sit in the front seat. As a woman, if I’m by myself, I usually sit in the back, but it’s more related to respect (for both the driver and I) rather than it being unsafe. If I’m in a group of women, it’s not uncommon for one of us to be in the front seat. Single men, feel free to pop up into the passenger side and hopefully you will end up with a good chat!
You will hear people talking about the circles (as I’ve already done). The main artery of West Amman is Zahran street which goes all the way from downtown to past the airport highway. There are 8 circles (roundabouts that are – unfortunately – not used in the same polite ways that Brits use their roundabouts), called… 1st circle, 2nd circle, 3rd circle and so on. It’s helpful as it’s centralizing, but in case you are wondering, this is where it comes from. There are a few other circles that have actual names, not numbers, too.
Night time is when Amman comes alive! Whether cultural or due to the heat, after dark is when the city gets busy – this can be either really fun, or a bit overwhelming, depending on your nature. Plan accordingly.
My itinerary is meant to maximize your time, not sending you all over the city, and rather focusing your time on areas that are close to each other, while also ensuring you get the full – and diverse – vibes of the city.
Amman has temperate weather most of the year, rarely getting above 40 degrees C/ 100 degrees F during the summer. However, it is a dry climate, so even in the summer it can get cool (and sometimes really windy) in the evening. You may want to bring a light jacket or pashmina, just in case.
Jordan is a Muslim country, and although its gotten less conservative over the years, do consider what you are wearing. For men, shorts are fine, but tank tops may get you stared at. For women, sleeveless dresses/tops are also fine in most locations, but I refrain from wearing shorts or short dresses. Bring a light sleeved top or scarf if you plan to go into any religious sites. You will have to cover your heads, shoulders and knees. Also, if you are wearing shorts around town, you may not have anything actually happen to you, but you really stand out as a tourist… just saying…
So, yalla! Let’s go!
Day 1
Arrive and check into your hotel. Given the rest of your itinerary, I recommend staying either in Jabal Amman around the 1st or 2nd circles, or in Jabal al Weibdeh. You could also stay in Abdali or Shmeisani, which is still central enough. Options:
Jabal Amman
Nomads Hotel ($)
House Boutique Hotel ($$) (I stayed here and I liked it!)
Le Royal Hotel ($$) (I stayed here and the bed was very comfy)
Landmark Hotel ($$)
Jabal al Weibdeh
Darna Hostel ($)
Locanda Hotel ($$)
Canary Hotel ($$) (Friends stayed here and really liked it)
Liv Weibdeh Suites ($$)
Shmeisani/Abdali
Signia by Hilton Hotel ($$) (Used to be a Kempinski, which I stayed at. Haven’t tried this one)
Al Qasr Hotel ($$)
Hilton Hotel ($$)
W Hotel owned by Marriott ($$$)
Amman Rotana Hotel ($$$)
Now, get to know Amman’s history by heading to downtown!
Start off your day (hopefully in the cooler morning hours) by taking a taxi or Uber/Careem to explore the Citadel. The Citadel is located on one of the highest hills (“jabal”) in Amman, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s also one of the oldest archeological sites in the greater Amman area, with evidence of life from back as far as the Neolithic period (10,000-2,000 BC). There are a number of structures to explore in this site, dating from the Roman empire, to the Byzantine empire, to the Umayyad empire. It costs 3 JD (as of writing) for a tourist to enter, and one can easily spend 3-4 hours here, depending on how in-depth you go at the archeological museum on site. (I do highly recommend a browse at least). It also gives you great views of the Amman hills, allowing you to understand why it’s known as the city of hills.
Next, if you aren’t tired of walking yet, you can walk down the hill to downtown, or call yourself an Uber to head for lunch to try out two of Amman’s favorites (by locals and tourists alike): Hashem falafel, followed by Habiba kunefe. Amazingly, both restaurants are open 24 hours a day, and you can find people eating in both at all times, day and night. Don’t forget to order the stuffed falafel at Hashem, and get both types of kunefe at Habiba to find out which of this cheesy, sweet dessert you prefer. Both restaurants speak to the intertwined nature of Palestine and Jordan: Hashem was started in 1910 in Jaffa, Palestine before moving to Amman in the 1950s, while Habiba originates in Nablus, Palestine, before starting up in Amman in the late 1940s.
After you’ve stuffed your face on amazing Jordanian-Palestinian food, wander through the crowded downtown streets of Amman through market after market to the Roman Amphitheater. Another leftover from the Roman empire in this region, this 6,000 seat amphitheater dates from 2,000 BC, when Amman was known as Philadelphia. They still hold performances here, occasionally, so if you are lucky to arrive when a show is happening, I highly recommend. I saw Riverdance here, and loved the confluence of Irish dancing in a Roman theater in a Middle-Eastern city.
Finish your afternoon wandering through the downtown market, buying souvenirs, spices and other trinkets from the friendly shop owners. I highly recommend looking for my favorite spices: sumac (a lemony, tangy spice related to the cashew tree), and za’atar, a thyme-forward herb blend that you can use on its own or in meat dishes or with roasted vegetables. Be sure to pass by the Grand Husseini Mosque, where hopefully you can hear the beauty of the call to prayer.
If you need a break from the heat, feel free to stop off at Central Café (one of the oldest cafes in Amman) or Astrolabe for a refreshing mint-lemonade and a view over the bustle (and honking of horns) of downtown.
Pop back to your hotel for a rest/freshen up before heading to dinner.
For dinner, I recommend one of three options:
My favorite place to take first time visitors is to Sufra, on Rainbow street, for amazing local food in a beautiful old house and garden. Here, you must try Jordan’s local dish: Mansaf, a meal of lamb, yogurt and rice. If you go to Jordan without trying this, Jordanians will shame you.
A fancier but still local option is to dine at Fakhreldin, where the service and food bring you closer to hobnob with some of the swankier bits of Jordanian society.
Alternatively, if you want to save Sufra for tomorrow (also an option), I recommend heading back downtown to Kitkat. Kitkat is a locally loved meat-heavy restaurant that is frequently busier at 2am than at 7pm.
A note: Jordanians head out on the “later side” of the evening. An 8pm dinner could be considered early. If you want to get the real Jordan experience, feel free to switch the after-dinner options for pre-dinner.
For those that drink alcohol, I recommend getting to know the locally produced drinks that Jordan has to offer.
JR The Wine Experience: Jordan River is Jordan’s local winery, producing over 40 types of wines from across the country, including a wide range of whites, roses, reds and sparkling. If you are a wine-lover, be sure to stop by, taste the range and plan to bring a few bottles home with you.
Biera: Amman’s first craft brewery. Try out the (really good!) beer, locally produced and only available here at Biera. (Alternatively, if you want to drink a local beer, I support Carakale available at most bars).
Day 2:
Today, we head to the First Circle / Rainbow Street, located in the historic neighborhood of Jabal Amman. You will have likely read about Rainbow Street, with guide books noting its popularity due to being lined with cafes, shops and boutiques.
Start off your morning with a coffee or tea at the Wild Jordan Center. Owned by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) in Jordan, this center not only has good food, gorgeous views (overlooking the Citadel, where you were yesterday), but also promotes its mission of promoting sustainable, community-led tourism. If you are staying in Jordan longer, use this time to explore adventure tours you can take across the rest of the country, and don’t miss a browse of their shop where locally made items promote local socio-economic growth across Jordan.
After fueling up, head from Wild Jordan towards Rainbow Street for some shopping. Don’t miss out on:
Trinitae for locally made skin care items that harness the wellbeing of the Dead Sea to mix with locally available herbs and minerals to promote environmentally-friendly skin rejuvenation. Great souvenirs for the women in your life (or for yourself!). My only gripe with Trinitae is that I wish they offered spa services at this beautiful, historic building with a view!
Turquoise Mountain Showroom, where artistic handcrafts from Jordan and around the region bring beauty (and a hefty price tag) with a royal ring to it (It was founded by King Charles the III). I at least love looking at the gorgeous furniture, even if it’s well out of my price range.
Mlabbas Clothing or FNL Clothing (or both!), local favorites of mine, particularly for funny and/or political clothing items and other items that bring entertainment to a complex region.
Various antique furniture and jewelry shops. Great items, but beware! They do know how to sell, in the most charming way possible.
My favorite falafel in Amman is located on Rainbow Street, so I have to recommend. Falafel Al Quds is just a side stand, serving falafel since 1966. Interesting fact: Al Quds is the Arabic name for Jerusalem. If you are tired of falafel from yesterday, I can also recommend Reem Shawarma which is known as one of the best (and busiest) beef shawarma sandwiches in all of Amman.
After your wander, you will be ready for some time inside, I’m sure. Spend a few hours in the Jordan Museum to fill up on all the historical questions that entered your head over the last 2 days.
Tonight, your plans should include a restaurant with a view over Amman, to witness one of my favorite things about Amman: views. Options include:
I’ve been to all of them and recommend all.
Day 3
It’s been a full two days, particularly with so much walking! So, this morning, we are going to take some time off of our feet to experience another Jordanian / Arab tradition: The Hammam.
A true hammam experience is not for the faint of heart. The things you might have heard about it are probably true. It’s a lot of nakedness, rough scrubbing and being told “go here, go here”, but the end result is feeling relaxes and clean. My favorite is Alf Leila w Leila Turkish Baths, but I’ve also tried the Al Pasha Turkish Baths, which is also nice. Stay tuned on Yalla Habibti for details on the full hammam experience, but at this point, I recommend wearing a swimsuit (top optional) bringing with you a change of clothes and your toiletries to get ready for the day. Don’t worry, they are gender-separated.
After you are cleaned up, (“na’eeman”!), I recommend getting in a visit to the King Abdullah Mosque, particularly if you didn’t visit the Grand Husseini Mosque on the first day. It’s not on the scale of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus or some of the grand mosques in the United Arab Emirates, but it’s worth a visit to understand a little more about Islam. It’s also centered right in between two churches (which emphasizes the diversity of religion that you can still find across most of the Middle East).
For lunch and the afternoon, we will head to Jabal al Weibdeh, another neighborhood in Amman. Traditionally known as the “Christian area” in Amman, it’s now heavily inhabited by artistic Jordanians and foreigners working for embassies, the United Nations and/or non-governmental organizations.
If you are ready for lunch, head to Manara or Dar Ne’meh for coffee and lunch with a socially conscious view. Manara advocates for artistic and cultural by empowering youth, while Dar Ne’meh aims to empower women across Jordan with training, followed by selling their goods at the shop. Manara also offers an arts and crafts workshop, in case you are tired of walking and want to get into your creative side for a few hours.
Be sure to leave some time to explore the Jadal Cultural Center or the Darat al Funan Foundation, where you can continue to immerse yourself in Amman’s creative side.
For dinner tonight, we are going to go a little untraditional – or actually, I guess it’s very traditional, by taking a cooking class at Beit Sitti. This female & family-owned business has been around since 2010 and is the best place to cook and dine, in the most fun way possible! You will spend half of your time learning how to cook traditional dishes, and the remaining time enjoying the fruits (and meats and vegetables and desserts) of your labor.
If you STILL have energy left after dinner, pop up to Dali, the local bar-restaurant-workspace where the foreign and Jordanian neighbors mix and meet.
After this, head to your very late night flight, in the most Jordanian way possible (too many flights leave between 1-6am… I still don’t get why either!).
Thanks for reading! Check out Yalla Habibti and follow along on Instagram.