How had I not heard of these islands sooner?
Add the Aeolian Islands to your summer travel list ASAP
I can’t remember when exactly I first heard of the Aeolian Islands, but it was only a few years ago. I do remember that once I did some research I was shocked I hadn’t heard of them sooner. How are they not on everyone’s travel list?
The seven volcanic islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea are lesser known than Sicily, Sardinia, or many Greek islands, but no less wonderful to visit. They’re gorgeous, feel undiscovered while also having excellent restaurants, hotels and other amenities tourists would want, and each of them has a different vibe, fitting a wide range of travelers.
The islands are Italian, off the coast of Sicily, but named after Aeolus, Greek god of winds, for the strong and constant winds that sweep through the region. But don’t worry! Wind is my least favorite element and it did not deter me from having an amazing time.
Some basics:
The Aeolian Islands, which have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, consist of seven main islands: Lipari, Salina, Vulcano, Stromboli, Panarea, Alicudi, and Filicudi. Lipari is the largest and most populated, offering a lively atmosphere with picturesque towns, historical sites, and beautiful beaches. Vulcano is aptly known for its dramatic volcanic landscape, thermal mud baths, and the Gran Cratere, a dormant volcano that visitors can hike. Then there’s the active volcano of Stromboli, which continuously erupts. The island of Panarea is known for its glamorous ambiance, upscale resorts and higher-end restaurants, and Alicudi and Filicudi offer secluded beaches, fishing towns, and unspoiled natural beauty. My friend Livia has more on each island here.
Travel rule of thumb: less is more
If you have a week to 10 days, pick two islands. This is my number one travel rule, and the one people ignore the most. Don’t try to see more than two cities in a week.
Nathan and I went to the Aeolian Islands for part one of our honeymoon, based on Livia’s glowing recommendation. We chose Salina and Stromboli, which seemed different from each other and to have a good mix of what we like on a vacation: good food, adventure, outdoor activity, and a bit of luxury and relaxation. (Part two of our honeymoon included less relaxation, but still lots of great wine and food).
Salina
Getting there:
Take the ferry from Milazzo, in Sicily, to Salina. If you’re flying into Sicily, fly into Catania. We used the Eolian Shuttle service to get from the Catania airport to the Milazzo port and it was great.
Stay:
Hotel Signum in Malfa. This hotel is on the expensive side, but it was our honeymoon and well worth it for the pool with views, the wonderful restaurant and the private bungalow rooms.
Do:
Spend an afternoon on the main street in Malfa, where there are pottery shops, cafes, etc.
Spend an afternoon or evening in Santa Marina, where there are restaurants, granita, a small beach and a small park.
Relax on Pollara beach
Take a boat tour with BluSalina. It’s pricey but worth it for the view of Salina from the boat, the chance to snorkel in the crystal clear water, and insight into the island’s history and culture. Mostly though, take a boat tour for the caponata served on board, one of the best things I’ve ever eaten and maybe the dish Nathan and I reminisce about the most. I majorly regret not asking the captain (who made it) what his secret ingredient is that makes it different from any caponata I’ve ever had. If you go, please ask him for the recipe and report back!
Eat:
Maracaibo–Walk from the hotel down to this restaurant on Spiaggia Dello Scario for aperitivo at sunset.
La Pinnata del Monsu–Fresh seafood and vegetables on a cliff with views.
Da Alfredo–For the granita. It might be the best granita in the world.
Terre di Salina–If you’re waiting for your ferry and need a quick bite, glass of wine, or jar of olive oil to take home, this is your spot.
Cunzato–A typical Aeolian Islands dish, sort of like an open-faced focaccia sandwich. Served lots of places.
Capers–Capers from the Aeolian Islands are elite. They’re bigger and more flavorful than from other places. You’ll see them on almost every menu, and depicted on ceramics around the island.
Drink:
Capo Faro––Sip Malvasia on the gorgeous terrace at Capo Faro. You don’t have to be a guest to enjoy the bar, though staying here does look lovely.
Tip: There’s a bus that goes around the island, so you can take it from Malfa to Santa Marina and elsewhere.
Stromboli
Most of the island of Stromboli is taken up by Mount Stromboli, one of four active volcanoes in Italy. Where Salina is sleek and luxurious, Stromboli is rugged and casual. The vibe is laid back: think beach bars, pizzerias, backpackers, old men watching soccer in tavernas…you get the idea.
It’s also the location of this Ingrid Bergman movie:
Getting there:
Take ferry from Salina, Messina, or one of the other islands.
Getting around:
The island is pretty small and once settled in we walked everywhere. From the ferry to your hotel or Airbnb (especially if you have a lot of luggage or, like us, are staying up on a hill) you can take an ape. (See our ride here!)
Stay:
We stayed in this Airbnb. It was basic but had great views, a decent kitchen and the host was friendly and helpful.
Do:
Lounge on Spiaggia Fico Grande, a black volcanic sand beach.
Make your way to Spiaggia Lunga, which felt more like a local beach than Fico Grande, for beers at sunset.
Take a boat tour (there are plenty available near the ferry, all inexpensive) to Ginostra, a village only accessible by sea. The tours also stop for swimming.
Hike up Mount Stromboli to see the Sciara del Fuoco, or “stream of fire,” lava that runs down the side of the volcano. If you’re lucky, you’ll see it erupt. The hike up took us about two hours.
Eat:
Pizza at Da Luciano
At Osservatorio at the base of the volcano after your hike. The food here is fine, but you come for the views of the eruptions and the hilarity of the diners cheering each time it happens.
We cooked at our Airbnb, but if you have other restaurant recommendations please leave them in the comments for others!
Get drinks at La Libreria, a bookstore/bar/live music venue
Wine of the Week
You might think of sweet wine when you think of Malvasia, and that can certainly be the case, but Malvasia can also be dry, bright and saline. It’s a perfect hot weather wine and one I wish was more widely available in the U.S.
Thank you for reading and subscribing! See more about our time in the Aeolian Islands here.
–Rebecca 💛
Rebecca, thank you for this. Booking for April/May 2024.
Looks amazing & delicious! 😋